About a quarter-and possibly as much as a third-of the population of little San Mateo, Mexico, now lives in Philadelphia.
|A soccer match takes place every Sunday near the town center.|
Tellez was in luck. The restaurant needed a dishwasher, and he was hired on the spot. But when he walked into the kitchen, another surprise awaited him.
"Where are the Mexicans?" Tellez wondered.
Today the undocumented Mexican community of South Philadelphia is about 12,000 strong.
If Tellez were alive today he could walk into just about any restaurant kitchen in the city and find fellow mexicanos hard at work.
Efren Tellez died of exhaustion three years ago. He left behind a wife and three children in San Mateo. His son, the oldest, is about 17. He arrived in Philly just more than a month ago.
Although it's a difficult population to track, community leaders estimate there are anywhere from 750 to 1,200 San Mateans now living in Philadelphia, most of them men age 18 to 45. The population of San Mateo as of two years ago was 2,600.
That means approximately a quarter-and possibly as much as a third-of San Mateo's population now lives in Philadelphia.
After Tellez spent his first two years living and working in Philadelphia, he went back to San Mateo to visit. There he spread the word about Philly-there were restaurant jobs, and they paid well. He soon rounded up about a dozen men-including two brothers-in-law, two cousins and some friends-and he brought the men back to Philly with him.
|The still-active Popocatepetl volcano overlooks the pueblo.|
Mario, a cousin and one of the original dozen to come back with him, estimates Tellez had brought about 200 San Mateans to Philadelphia before he died. He's remembered as a good guy, someone who wanted to help others find the same opportunities he'd found. Sometimes he charged them the coyote fee, sometimes he didn't.
For Philadelphia restaurant owners, the arrival of this new immigrant community was a blessing. For one thing, it coincided with the city's restaurant boom, which was then having a hard time finding reliable workers to take the low-end kitchen jobs.
And there was an added bonus: These new workers had already been trained in the food and restaurant business. Many of the San Mateans had worked in upscale restaurants in places like Cholula, Puebla and Mexico City before coming to Philadelphia.
And along with their labor and restaurant experience, the community also brought history, culture and values.
"They're very professional and very disciplined," restaurateur Guillermo says of the San Matean workers. "People who stay out of trouble."
|A street scene in quiet San Mateo.|
The streets of San Mateo are mostly unpaved. As the minivans roll in, unloading San Mateans from their jobs in neighboring towns, the air becomes thick with dirt. Jeans and shoes get a thick coating of dust.
The town's gray concrete-block homes are splashed with graffiti painted by teenagers to represent local rival gangs: the Sex Pistols, the Cobras, the Ducks and the Shalacas (a Nahuatl word for scorpions).
PW's 2015 Gift Guide
Dinner with Luke Palladino