Clothes Make the Man

Like Jack and his magic beanstalk, Urban Outfitters President Richard Hayne turned a few hippie beans into a hip $700 million retail empire.

By Jonathan Valania
Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 47 | Posted Jun. 11, 2003

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But the two never lost touch, running into each other back home over holidays. When the Summer of Love flowered in 1967, the romance rekindled. And two years later, after graduating from college, with the Vietnam War reaching the zenith of its brutal pointlessness and student opposition swelling, they were married in the woods behind Judy's house.

The war--and maybe a little Dylan and marijuana--radicalized Dick and Judy, liberating them from the stifling '50s orthodoxy into which they were born.

"Dick really rebelled against authority," Wicks recalls. "He was the first one to grow long hair in my town. He was the first one to speak out against the status quo and say, 'Hey, [the war] is wrong.' That was one of the reasons why I admired him."

Looking to do something to affect social change--and well aware that Dick's deferred draft status ended with his graduation--the newlyweds joined VISTA, the domestic volunteer program.

The two soon found themselves stationed in Chefornak, Alaska, building houses and teaching Eskimos how to speak English. The 10 months the couple spent in Alaska were as hard as they were rewarding. The temperature typically hovered around 30 degrees below zero, not counting the wind chill factor, and even though the shack they shared was oil-heated, it was still cold enough inside to freeze the water in the dog's bowl.

"You opened the door at night and it was just solid white," says Wicks. "The snow had drifted over the top of your cabin and you had to dig your way out."

Bathing was a rare and shiver-inducing luxury. The only entertainment was the Russian radio broadcasts and the one Elvis record they had in the shack--both of which were limited to the two hours a day of rationed, generator-powered electricity. They subsisted on seal meat, canned goods and shipments of frozen steaks.

After 10 months Dick and Judy's tour of duty came to a premature end when the state pulled the plug on Alaska's VISTA program. The state was in the process of settling land rights disputes with the native population--which had great difficulty grasping the completely foreign concept of "owning" land--and didn't much appreciate a bunch of smart-aleck longhaired college kids clueing them in to the legal ramifications of the state's land grab.

In 1970 Dick and Judy headed back to Ingomar with a combined $3,000 in VISTA stipends to their names. Then came the day Dick's old college roommate, Scott Belair, came to visit, and over beers they discussed they should do next.

Dick and Judy told him they were thinking about starting a store of some kind. Belair, who was enrolled at Wharton, told them that they should come to Philadelphia. Belair had a class in entrepreneurism the next semester and said he could get course credit while helping out with the business end of things. Belair threw $1,500 into the pot, and the deal was struck.

That fall Dick and Judy loaded up their Volvo station wagon and moved to Philadelphia. They opened their store at 4307 Locust St. in University City, right next door to Koch's Deli. In the spirit of the times, they named it the Free People's Store and hung a sign out front that was shaped liked a peace dove.

Free People's Store became a general store for students, offering affordable yet fashionable clothes and assorted bohemian bric-a-brac. The store was also a locus for various causes and events.

Though money was tight, Dick and Judy compensated with ingenuity and sacrifice. They lived in the back room of the store, showering at friends' houses.

They would go to Chinatown on garbage day, trashpick the wooden produce crates, clean them up, paint them and make shelving out of them. The huge wooden spools the power company used to coil cables served as tables. A local ragman who typically sold clothing by the ton took pity on these broke hippie kids and sold them clothes by the pound.

They would buy cheap men's undershirts and dye them various colors or drive up to New York and load up on cut-rate Asian imports--incense burners and Madras bedspreads. Students moving out would donate clothes, leaving them on the store's front step.

For those who couldn't even afford Free People's bargain-basement prices, there was a "free bin." A pair of old-fashioned men's long johns hung on the door, and during store hours the rear flap would be unbuttoned to display a sign that read "OPEN."

"We were very anti-business, and we felt that big business was the root of the Vietnam War," says Wicks. "Our philosophy was to simply make enough to live on modestly, but we wouldn't accumulate wealth."

While the store thrived in its first year of business, Dick and Judy's marriage did not, and by 1971 they went their separate ways. Judy went on to open the highly successful White Dog Cafe, where she would host and coordinate countless social and community activist campaigns, while Dick went on to build the Urban Outfitters empire out of the humble beginnings of Free People.

As of press time, his personal wealth was estimated to be in excess of $230 million.


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COMMENTS

Comments 1 - 47 of 47
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1. BK said... on Jul 6, 2008 at 08:25PM

“I think Richard Hayne is a wonderful man. Urban Outfitters is an amazing store, and it is frustrating that you only have such negative things to say. It would have been nice if you had at least said a few good things about him. You are a good writer but maybe you should be more open minded and not just focus on what is bad or wrong about someone or something.”

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2. kirsch said... on Jul 9, 2008 at 02:11PM

“i wonder why it is that urban outfitters has now decided to put notebook pads with catholic saints containing duragatory captions on them... like calling one of the female saints a bitch...is this part of the stay hip”

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3. AC said... on Oct 5, 2008 at 06:25PM

“Dear BK, I think you missed the point of this article being an honest portrayal of a man who has abandoned his ideals (if they were ever there) to pure and blatant consumerism-- I don't think any of the things in this article are mean or cruel to Richard, only true. It's important to stay true to an interview.”

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4. matea said... on Jan 28, 2009 at 07:14PM

“im with AC on this. it just sounds like an honest portrayal. no B.S. like usual. honestly its kind of sad that there are not other large scale clothing chains that don't feed some fat old republican man at the top”

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5. Diana said... on Feb 1, 2009 at 04:42PM

“Amazing that Hayne decried having to pay AMERICAN workers good wages because it would make their clothing too expensive for Americans, and yet he operates Anthropologie, which sells dresses worth about $8 dollars, for $300. dollars. Guess the retailers like him are getting their come-uppance. I'd predicted last year that the steady stream of offshoring not only clothing construction, but fabric itself (all in the name of BIG profits) would come back and bite them on the behinds. Guess what? When American consumers stop buying on credit (which they have stopped doing), and they no longer have wage-earner jobs (all been shipped overseas in the name of shareholder profits), then who the heck is going to buy your overpriced merchandise? Basic economics always trumps basic greed. I'll never shop in those stores again. ”

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6. Dee said... on Feb 7, 2009 at 11:11AM

“This is a wonderful article. thank you for writing about Urban.Good to know these things. No one is too "big" to fall... it just takes time.”

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7. dee said... on Feb 7, 2009 at 11:14AM

“i cannot agree as a former employee...”

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8. Debi Colbert said... on Feb 13, 2009 at 12:47PM

“Looking for a vest I purchased in St. Louis Missouri. It is a medium grey stone washed vest with collar has reinstones and crochet lace at the bottom Urban 1987”

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9. jy said... on Feb 28, 2009 at 08:26AM

“well i dont agree with most of you mr. hayne is a great man he made my dad and the rest of my family happy my dad works for him he is the sweetiest man he is soo nice”

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10. Anonymous said... on Jul 1, 2009 at 12:01PM

“I don't know why you think it's the Republicans that are fat cats, who's taking over big business in America and giving them billions of dollars.. the democrats. That's the progressive way. They are taking over the economy-energy, health care, cars, banks. They will control every aspect of our lives. He better hurry up and make as much money as he can , times a ticking faster everyday. With Al Franken now in don't blink because you'll miss the switch from liberty to tyranny.”

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11. anonymous said... on Jul 16, 2009 at 11:54AM

“Oh man I remember reading this when it was published, thank god it's online, somebody needs to start reposting this sucker all over the internet.

PW would never have the balls to publish something like this today.

We need one of these about SRO and GYRO too.

Doesn't it bother anyone else that these 3 companies have co-opted 80 % of philadelphia's talent???”

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12. Anonymous said... on Dec 25, 2009 at 04:51PM

“My sister told me to stop shopping at anthropologie a long time ago because of who they support...I never listened until I read this article.
I told my friends to stop buying me gift certificates to anthro.”

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13. Anonymous said... on Jan 5, 2010 at 05:52PM

“Urban Outfitters is well known for stealing artist's work and selling it as their own. Just Google "urban outfitters steals designs" and look at what comes up.

Support your local artist - don't by ripped off ideas from Urban Outfitters.”

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14. Anonymous said... on Jan 5, 2010 at 05:54PM

“Gah, my keyboard keys got stuck! That should be " don't *buy* ripped off ideas..."”

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15. Nick Russell said... on Jan 6, 2010 at 02:13AM

“Two things:

1) The tone of this article is a bit unfair for the faux-shock that indeed Urban Outfitters is a business and that the CEO has changed his views on personal matters in the last 30 years.

What's the saying? You should be liberal in your 20s and conservative in your 50s? Whilst he may not align with the 60s ideals anymore, he is paying thousands of people. That should be worth something.

2) As far as his support of political figures -- the political system in the US is so far f*cked that who even really cares anymore. Americans love to feign outrage but at the same time also love to amazingly not to anything, allowing the government to run roughshod over everyone's rights. Boo hoo. If you want to talk about another man's politics go get a sign or a gun or run in an election or do something. It's laughable that anyone thinks $13,500 donation means anything in the face of the level of corruption present in the US.”

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16. Anonymous said... on Jan 6, 2010 at 02:46PM

“@ Nick Russell

I don't think the point is to judge the man's personal political beliefs, so much as it is to expose the blatant hypocrisy of a company that markets clothing to young liberal-minded people then invests in bigoted and controversial politicians.

People like Rick Santorum are the scum of the earth, and I'd hate to see any retailer investing in his career...and it just adds insult to injury to see it come from a company that masquerades as an open-minded and liberal retailer.”

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17. Anonymous said... on Jan 6, 2010 at 04:50PM

“I will never buy from any of Hayne's stores again - enough said.”

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18. Anonymous said... on Jan 12, 2010 at 09:18AM

“I'm writing to UO today to ask to be taken off their catalog mailing list. The female models with partially exposed breasts and in explicite poses look like they are 12 years old. I'm pretty progressive and open minded about sexuality but this is just creepy.”

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19. slackerati said... on Feb 21, 2010 at 08:00PM

“Speaking of "postcollegiate slackerati," that first paragraph reads like a freshman Lit student's attempt to sound scholarly.

"The most valuable of all talents is that of never using two words when one will do." — Thomas Jefferson”

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20. jasmine said... on Mar 29, 2010 at 05:07PM

“modelmayhem.com/ub3rmoda”

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21. Anonymous said... on May 8, 2010 at 10:36AM

“eh.... just go to Sugarcube and other Old City shops!!! http://sugarcube.us”

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22. Anonymous said... on Jun 11, 2010 at 09:08PM

“In America people are allowed to take risks and try to make it rich. In his quest he realized that he had to do certain things to become rich and stay rich. As metioned in the article, he donates money to different causes and supports causes that need support. Times have changed and he changed with the times. Many of the former liberal "hippies" have changed into republicans for reasons such as financial stabability and change in opinion. Even though his ideals have changed, he and his buisness should not be judged. He has realized that in order to thrive in a capatilist economy, some of his liberal ideas had to change. Although he does support a man be has said horrible things, he may support him for reasons of his own. Try to show him how wrong this man is. He supplies many jobs and sells some pretty awesome clothing. I believe if you were to judge this man fromthis one article you would be as much of a hypocrite as him by saying you're "openminded" learn his side of the story.”

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23. admirer said... on Sep 13, 2010 at 10:49PM

“I think that trying to corner him with Santorum's views of gay rights was pretty low of you guys. It's pretty clear that he donated to Santorum based on some economic issue, probably a tax of some sort.

Really, he seems like a decent guy who decided that living in hippie poverty wasn't for him. Good for him.

Still, one of my favorite stories in the paper.”

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24. Anonymous said... on Oct 1, 2010 at 11:11PM

““I think that trying to corner him with Santorum's views of gay rights was pretty low of you guys. It's pretty clear that he donated to Santorum based on some economic issue, probably a tax of some sort.

Really, he seems like a decent guy who decided that living in hippie poverty wasn't for him. Good for him.

Still, one of my favorite stories in the paper.””

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25. A.C. said... on Feb 11, 2011 at 12:29AM

“You miss the point here. It's true that he is a genius businessman. He may be a sweet man. But I've toured UO's headquarters, and realized it is nothing but a factory of thieves pilfering ideas, stealing from their own freelancers. It's the most capitalistic, vicious clothing company of them all. I'm not surprised the false hipness of UO has Santorum allllll over it.”

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26. Anonymous said... on Mar 4, 2011 at 07:09PM

“Wow. I found this article to be ridiculous. Enough with the flowery writing; if you're doing journalism, stick to journalism! This article is extremely biased and straw man's Hayne. The writer is just as guilty of having an agenda as fox new or msnbc.”

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27. Anonymous said... on Apr 12, 2011 at 05:30AM

“Urban Outfitters is SO overpriced...”

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28. Anonymous said... on May 28, 2011 at 05:34PM

“I find it hard to believe that anyone who seriously studied anthropology (enjoyed, really wanted to, really was excited about it -- not those who go to college just to get a degree and degrade the social science fields because they're "really easy") could even dream of supporting someone like Santorum, simply because of the fact that supporting him -- and others ideologically similar on any side of the lines -- makes no sense for someone who believes in understanding human culture.”

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29. Thomas Jennings said... on May 28, 2011 at 06:28PM

“Does seem like a very loaded article. Got some interesting information out of it, but he's certainly not the kind of monster that you seem to think he is.”

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30. Spam S. Pam said... on May 30, 2011 at 07:59PM

“Soooo, you guys haven't bothered with even the most basic of spam filters then, eh? It even says as I post this, "Urls prohibited" but I am looking at several obvious spam posts with URLs, years old shilling crappy goods and probable scams.

Nice-way to go-keep advertising those spammy spam spammers...........”

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31. Anonymous said... on Jun 1, 2011 at 10:36PM

“Lets be real, this is just a case of a person caught up in consumerism. hipsterism isnt going anywhere. this scanal just results from a persons ideal being wrapped up in the realities of capitalism. if your worried about still managing to be a hipster though, heres 6 easy rules to remaining one of the slacker, anti-establishmentist, cool kids.
http://wp.me/p17OrR-wC

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32. Tom said... on Jul 24, 2011 at 03:40PM

“Agree with the type of exposure that this article provided, pulling back to see the man behind the curtain. I think it's low for a company to profit from young liberals and spend money in a way diametrically opposed to that demographic.

Niceness is often a way of trying to smooth over a political stand when you have no spine.”

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33. Bannef said... on Nov 9, 2011 at 07:01PM

“Eh, so Richard Hayne is a republican. Their CEO, Glen Senk, is openly gay, and that is not an easy feat - I sincerely doubt he could have risen so high in a hostile environment (or would have chosen to - he seems quite proud of his sexuality).

I never quite understood the issues with corporations trying to be "trendy" or "creative." I guess the image is of a bunch of suits sitting around with a computer deciding what the "kids" will be into this year, but mostly it involves finding some really creative people, and then paying them to make things... Which sounds cool to me? It's hard enough for artsy people to get enough money to put food on the table in this world...

Now, if you have reason to think they are taking advantage of those creative people, then I totally get that there's a problem here. But I think that needs to be evaluated company to company (or even department to department within one company).”

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34. western style printers said... on Jan 4, 2012 at 06:51AM

“how are you ? this is nawaz from pakistan . i have printing press unit .
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hang tags and woven labels is best qulity and best rats .
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35. andrew said... on Mar 4, 2012 at 05:53PM

“Just like Dick Cheney, Richard Hayne's quite the chicken hawk. Never bought a damn thing from Urban Outfitters, and don't plan on doing so. Still, Pennsylvania has a lot to answer for to let it get to the point that Rick Santorum is a viable presidential candidate.”

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36. Anonymous said... on Mar 13, 2012 at 01:03AM

“Thanks for letting us know that the dollars we liberal women spend end up supporting Rick Santorum, who would deny us our rights!

I will be screaming this from the rooftops and shopping elsewhere!”

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37. Anonymous said... on Mar 27, 2012 at 11:39PM

“I came here looking to fact-check before reposting the latest ant-urban FB thread. I've hated UO for ages, but this article is so slanted it makes me want to like the guy. Reporting of facts should not involve personal opinions.”

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38. Mac said... on Mar 28, 2012 at 12:37PM

“So, if I decided to open a vegan restaurant, and i am a meat eater, would that be wrong? What if i was just doing it to make money? What if i was an atheist who operated a religious book store? Doing either of these things hurts no one, it just offers a service to people in search of a particular product. I work for Urban and its actually a pretty cool company, and many of the people who work there are a lot more open minded and tolerant of all political and social views than you would think. There are employees who are conservative and liberal, but we all have a common goal; TO SELL CLOTHES. This of course ensures that we keep our jobs, gets raises and promotions.

Would Brooks Brothers, a store that sells high end conservative apparel, be lambasted if the people in charge were liberals who donated to liberal causes? Would their consumers be justified in complaining that they donated to liberal causes, or would that just be COMPLETELY MORONIC?

Logic is in short supply nowadays.”

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39. ironyisoverrated said... on Apr 18, 2012 at 10:37AM

“Setting aside whether UO sells clothes that fit my or anyone else's taste, ultimately it is a publicly traded company that anyone can buy into and theoretically profit from. Knowing this, as a consumer who isn't interested in buying stock in the company, I'd only avoid UO if they directly donated corporate funds to regressive social causes. I don't have a problem with a shareholder doing so as an individual. If we progressives really want to encourage a more ethical, humane marketplace, we need to build more ethical, humane businesses ourselves rather than hectoring conservatives to make superficial changes to their business models and pay lip service to issues that concern us.”

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40. fashion trend said... on Apr 23, 2012 at 09:36PM

“I came here looking to fact-check before reposting the latest ant-urban FB thread.

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45. Anonymous said... on Jun 10, 2014 at 08:23PM

“OK - let's see. Clearly, Hayne is a bigot because he once, 11 years ago gave money to a politician. But yet he promoted to CEO the very first openly gay Fortune 500 CEO. Obviously a complete bigot....!!
Oh, and he gave Santorum $13,500 (because he agreed with some economic positions of Santorum) and he gave Drexel U over $20,000,000 to advance education. Again, clearly only interested promoting in his own bigoted views of the world.
He is also active in pre-college education personally, and Urban is a big supporter of both Alex's Lemonade Stand (fighting childhood cancer) and the Children's Scholarship Fund (giving scholarships to primarily minority Philadelphia kids). Horrible..!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hayne is a Libertarian, not a Republican. He apparently believes in individual liberty - maybe you don't.
Sorry. Rehashing the $13,500 to Santorum and telling us that he is "balding" is just showing your hatefulness. Try learning a few facts and open your eyes. Idiot.”

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46. http://www.olaflowers.com/ said... on Jul 1, 2014 at 09:33PM

“This post is excellent and so is the manner in which the subject was explained. I like some of the comments as well even though I would rather we all keep it on topic so that to add value to the idea.

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47. hulagan said... on Sep 15, 2014 at 08:39PM

“Oh, I'm the first to comment since the rise of the Islamic State? I wonder how quickly the article will disappear. I'll do my best to make it viral, but people are more concerned with watching economic and social destruction rather than learning from it and preventing it. This man is a "politician". Do not be fooled.

The ambiguity of that word is just as haunting as that of "humanity".

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