The Soul of the White Dog
A restaurant’s progressive mission gets lost in Disney.
White dog down: New owners put the restaurant’s progressive ethos to sleep.
Racist jokes from managers, flat screen televisions at the bar and a lessened commitment to local and seasonal food at the White Dog Cafe? Former employees say the West Philadelphia institution survives in name alone since founder Judy Wicks sold the restaurant in January 2009. Former servers, office and kitchen staff allege that the new owners, led by restaurateur Marty Grims, have steered the lefty cafe astray.
Andrew Brzozowski, who worked as a server and bartender for five years before quitting in May, says the new owners have turned the restaurant into a place like everywhere else—and that, he says, is not a good thing.
“This is all part of their suburbanization of the restaurant,” Brzozowski says. “It’s Disney.”
The firing of much of the kitchen and bar staff soon after Grims took over also rankled former employees. (The employees interviewed for this article, however, say that they all left on their own accord.)
Grims, Wicks and others still at the restaurant reject the accusations. “A lot of [these] things we have done to embrace the culture of the White Dog and improve upon it,” says Grims.
Grims stands behind the firings, saying, “A lot of the kitchen staff, we didn’t feel they were up to where they should be.”
One long-time kitchen employee, who insisted that he be identified only as “the brokenhearted chef,” disagrees, saying, “To see all of my friends, people I had known for years, lose their jobs on a whim? It’s bull.”
The chef, who says he “basically grew up in the White Dog,” left earlier this year after becoming disillusioned with the new owners. He says that Grims “pretty much got rid of everything that made the kitchen or company special.”
Wicks insisted that the White Dog would continue to be a landmark progressive business, signing a “social contract” with Grims requiring the restaurant to maintain its commitment to local and organic food. But former staff allege that ingredients are now less often seasonal and locally sourced.
For one, the restaurant now buys beef from outside the region instead of from a Chester County farm. But Grims’ corporate executive chef, Ralph Fernandez, says the beef wasn’t quality. Overall, he says, “We’re always looking to see if its possible to buy local. That’s our philosophy and mission statement.”
Another former employee alleges that Dunkin’ Donuts bagels were purchased for Sunday brunch.
Fernandez acknowledges this may have happened, but “only if things ran out and we didn’t want to 86 the item.”
Wicks expresses concern over the beef and acknowledges complaining to the chef over an asparagus dish served out of season, but says the issue was resolved. She says the new owners are doing a good job and that some changes are out of her control.
“The agreement was not to preserve the basic character,” Wicks says. “That’s a pretty nebulous thing.”
But Brzozowski says the problem goes far beyond the food.
“They came in wearing suits, ya’ know? And here we are, a bunch of West Philly kids, and they stuck out like such sore thumbs.”
And then came the uniforms.
“This was the first sign—‘Oh shit, here we go,’” he says. “The White Dog was the most anti-uniform establishment.”
But Mark Gratman, who has been a server and trainer for 10 years, disagrees, saying, “There’s a lot more professionalism than there has been in the past.”
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1. Bppu said... on Oct 6, 2009 at 09:01PM
“Grims is pathetic but so are the white dog hipsters. Glad they found each other. Just another Grims failing operation”
2. Andrew Brown said... on Oct 6, 2009 at 11:13PM
“I was the last chef at the old White Dog Cafe. I am sorry to hear that I did not meet the expectations on Mr. Grimms, what ever they may be? I am very proud of what we did, especially with what we had. Sure I was mad when it all went down but its all over. I had the chance to hang out with a huge group of old staff the other night and it was amazing. The best part, as Damon pointed out, was that no one bitched about work! What we had was real and special plus the food wasn't all that bad either.”
3. Anonymous said... on Oct 6, 2009 at 11:51PM
“What we did, and are now doing because of who we were and who we are now will never be taken away by the group of republicans that took over, or by the denials of a has been "social activist" owner.
'”
4. Markus said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 12:06AM
“It was the most amazing restaurant I have ever worked at and the staff represented the finest group of young professionals I've worked with or had the pleasure of calling my friends. That we couldn't save it broke my heart.”
5. Markus said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 12:06AM
“It was the most amazing restaurant I have ever worked at and the staff represented the finest group of young professionals I've worked with or had the pleasure of calling my friends. That we couldn't save it broke my heart.”
6. Jake Wade Hater said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 12:33AM
“I could go on and on telling you what really happened, but why waste my energy? I'll just say the racism was very true, the Dunkin donuts is also true, the Geno's shirt was worn proudly, and so many other disgusting things went on in that place post-sellout. This article is missing so much, but I guess most of those let go of unfairly have moved on to do better things and would rather not get re-involved with that republican circus. It's a corporate nightmare comparable to the former Bush administration. I'll close with my baby was made in the republicans bathroom, Mark, you're a bigger sellout than the Wicked Wicks of the West herself,and we love you Jonathan, Norm and Willie. We'll never forget any of it.”
7. Anonymous said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 06:30AM
“Once upon a time a fantastic place existed...where co-workers enjoyed each other, food was good and sometimes the message got across....now that place is gone....we should be glad to have been a part of it.....a wake should be held so those having issues can bury them and move on! One last proper party.......woof”
8. Anonymous said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 08:15AM
“I worked at the white dog over 7 years and can attest to the fact that Judy Wicks is a fake-I wasn't surprised at all to hear that she had soldout. Underneath her 'liberal' attitude is a republican at heart.
”
9. Anonymous said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 10:36AM
“Wow... what a bunch of whiners. You all should be glad you had a job for so long. The restaurant was sold for a reason. Someone bought it (for a lot of money) and are trying to keep it afloat in a terrible economy. Small businesses are closing left and right. Wouldn't you want to run things your way with a new staff? That is typically how things work. And way to curse, drop the Bush-bomb, and trash republicans in an article. That is some of the most stereotypical blind liberal rant bs I have ever read (and trust me I am nowhere near the Bush/conservative type). Think about all the people that still benefit from White Dog being open. Just because you don't work there anymore doesn't give you the right to trash it and try and sabotage it's future. If you were truly grateful for all your years of work you would want to see it survive even if it's not 100% true to it's original structure. Grow up and drop the hypocritical "if I can't have it no one can attitude" and support local business.”
10. Anonymous said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 11:15AM
“OK, the restaurant sold for 200K - yes, let me repeat, 200K.
For a 5 Million dollar a year business. That is just stupid.
The poor kitchen had been begging Jusy Wicks for new equipment for years - the food they put out in that busy of an environment, in a restaurant open 7 days per week, lunch, dinner, in-between and late-night, not to mention all of the events, block parties, etc.
I worked for Judy for 7 years, and moved on (by my own decision) much prior to the change in ownership, but I can attest to a couple of things:
1. She is a fake, and does not practice what she preaches.
2. She is out of control with the way she conducts herself. I could expand on this, bu tthe comment might not get published.
3. The old staff is as tight as ever, and many of us have built careers, families, and businesses around our enduring friendships and lessons learned together. That will never go away.
The saddest part is that the staff could have bought the restaurant.”
11. Box B. said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 11:28AM
“It's well known in West Philly that the White Dog is no longer a nice place to eat. The environment has changed, the attitudes of the bar tenders have changed, and most importantly the food has changed. All for the worse.”
12. Anonymous said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 11:37AM
“I ate there for my friend's bday and went to the Dance of the Ripe Tomatoes and had an amazing experience both times. I didn't notice any bad attitudes or poor service. I'm sure it is possible that things have changed for the worse, but I couldn't tell. Just sayin'”
13. white dawg runner said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 11:40AM
“i just want to reminisce about when we had a huge employee meeting and marty got up to speak. he put a chair in front of him and got into a captain morgan esque stance. all i remember about that meeting is that marty had a huge hole in the crotch of his pants...it was staring at me the whole meeting. all i can say is that marty, you're a freakin millionaire. find yoself a seamstress bro”
14. Anonymous said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 11:51AM
““OK, the restaurant sold for 200K - yes, let me repeat, 200K.
For a 5 Million dollar a year business. That is just stupid."
I find this hard to believe, the property alone has to be worth way more than that. If it is true than the old employees who generated this hit piece are horrible entrepreneurs and missed out on a huge chance to own a great restaurant and make a lot of money in the process.
"The saddest part is that the staff could have bought the restaurant.”
Lol so instead they quit their livelihood and passion and resorted to destroying reputations and complaining about how unfair life is?”
15. Anonymous said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 12:17PM
“I recently dined at the White Dog and found it to be a pretty positive experience. I am someone who has worked in the hospitality business in Philadelphia and other cities for the last 20 years. I appreciated the effort that the restaurant is making to serve organic, sustainable, humanely raised food and wine. From reading this article, it sounds as though the former White Dog suffered from a lack of standards, rules, and management structure (the inmates were running the asylum). On my recent visit, the restaurant appeared busy, guests seemed as pleased as I was, and there was a management presence which seemed to be actively participating in the service. If there was a problem at White Dog, it appears to be gone now.”
16. Toto said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 01:49PM
“So sad ... White Dog was a great dining experience back in the day. Wicks should have just closed it instead of letting its reputation get bastardized. Unfortunately, because of the name of the cafe is so closely associated with Wicks, this will be her legacy. And to that, I say - that's Shit..”
17. The Dog Walker said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 02:19PM
“I miss the Black Cat more than anything else :(”
18. stephanie said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 03:01PM
“it's easy to uphold the terms of a social contract when they just fire the staff instead of keeping them insured and on their payroll!!!thank you so much for writing this article, it's sad that such a special place that really made a difference in the lives of the staff and the diners has lost so much of what made it so unique and special.”
19. Camille said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 06:00PM
“Thank you so much for writing this article. I've been a customer of the White Dog Cafe for years and based on my last few experiences, after the change, I am never going back there. I also question the local and organic nature of the food. Food today IS political, someone should tell the new owner that.”
20. lunastrixae said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 10:02PM
“Thank you for finally telling this story. I'm a former customer (not an employee) and was horrified at the changes. I will never set foot in there again, and I hope it goes bankrupt so I can enjoy fond memories.”
21. Anonymous said... on Oct 7, 2009 at 11:40PM
“Like the one server said her baby was born in the republican bathroom, that comment signifies to the rampant lack of self control and professionalism the restaurant did not have before the new owners took over. The real story is that the old staff was running the place into the ground and taking advantage of a boss who trusted them to much. Who would want to leave a job where you could do anything you wanted to do(not show up if you did not feel like working, get high on your breaks, drink during work and after work for free and eat for free. Sure i would of left kicking and screaming also if you kicked me out of my own little private social club. Im sure there where alot of good people who worked there but as the story goes 1bad apple does ruin the pie, and yes even if you use organic apples a bad apple is a bad apple. Now imagine having 30-40 rotten apples you tell me what kind of pie that was!!!!!! You people where legends in your own mind, you where the bozos of your own circus!”
22. Andrew said... on Oct 8, 2009 at 08:25AM
“"You people where legends in your own mind, you where the bozos of your own circus!”. It's "were" not "where" dumb ass. Learn how to spell. XOXO”
23. Peter Trofimof said... on Oct 8, 2009 at 12:59PM
“In the Old WD, the food was all right, but rarely exceptional and it appears to be much the same in quality now (ok not great). What was exceptional was that the staff there endowed the place with an air of friendly non-conformism. They all seemed distinctive individuals, someone you could talk to, someone who had an interesting life outside of the jobs they did, and who seemed by and large satisfied with their jobs. In a climate which stresses control and homogenization, it was one of the few places around campus that had a degree of authenticity about it, even if it was bourgeois and genteel. Now, the staff is generic and dull, with the same fixed smiles and glazed looks of the minions of the food industry. Changing the food was one thing, changing a profitable ambience was just dumb business , apart from all the other unsavory issues mentioned here. I went at least 50 times in the past 2 decades, as a member of the university community, but I don't plan to go again if I can avoid it”
24. Elizabeth said... on Oct 8, 2009 at 03:41PM
“I am not a Penn student, nor do I identify with republicans or dems. I choose to spend my $ at an establishment whose mission it is to use fresh, local ingredients when it's possible. Shame on those of you boo-hoo'ing over Dunkin' Donuts bagels being used in an isolated circumstance, or beef being bought from an outside vendor because the local's was not quality. Get a life, get a job, and educate yourselves on what it takes to run a business. This may come as a huge shock to you, but the goal of the WD was first and foremost to be a profitable business, in order to bring about social awareness. It's obvious why Judy had to sell; her former employees speak to that in this article, they were trash. As she stated, the real world doesn't operate the way you want it to. Try spending some money on an education instead of weed and booze. The food & staff are excellent, I urge anyone who's visiting West Philly to try the White Dog and decide for yourself!”
25. Julie said... on Oct 8, 2009 at 03:43PM
“The working environment that Judy engendered was completely unique - employees felt both profound love and deeply rooted disgust for the place on a daily basis. But if you worked there for more than a few fleeting months, then you developed an emotional attachment to the White Dog that is impossible to deny. This is the reason why so many former employees have watched this saga so closely and have spoken about it so openly - where ever we fell on the spectrum of love or hate for the White Dog, we all felt a certain degree of ownership and, for some, pride in being associated with 3420. Judy is a passionate person, and she hired fiery, creative people. It was a blast and a fight, and it was always personal. These feelings of ownership simply cannot be replicated by Marty Grims. And the TVs at the bar are a tragedy. If you don't understand why, then you are part of the problem.”
26. Anonymous said... on Oct 8, 2009 at 11:11PM
“Having been a customer at the-White Dog for the past ten years i can say that the new management change has been for the better. I stopped going to the White Dog several years ago because of the the bad service and do not give a shit attitude that my last three waiters had. As for Julie and all the former employees who have watched this saga so closely the problem seems to have been solved. The new management seems to have gotten it right because on my last visit (only because my friend treated me) i encountered a new and better White Dog. It was clean, no mice playing tag on the porch and my food arrived fast and was delicious. Best of all the old i dont care about you attitude seemed to have disappeared. Having read all the prior posts i felt compelled to post my view because i am glad to be able to go back to a restaurant that i did love so much at one time. The T.V. does not bother me to much because i do not watch t.v. but at least they seemed to fix the problem (the old staff)”
27. cn2004 said... on Oct 9, 2009 at 11:23AM
“typical whining liberals, they had the chance to buy it and didn't. there's an old saying, put up or shut up. they didn't have the guts or brains to put their words into action. so now, please, shut up.”
28. PopProf said... on Oct 9, 2009 at 05:04PM
“I've worked in University City for many years and the White Dog was always the 'special occasion' restaurant for me and my colleagues. It was the restaurant that we entertained out of town visitors, celebrated our achievements and rewarded our staffs. I enjoyed many of the 'Table Talks' held at the restaurant and supported many of the special dining opportunities hosted by the White Dog Cafe. I enjoyed the quirkiness of the restaurant and the staff. After dining in the restaurant I looked forward to visiting the Black Cat for the treasures it held. I visited the restaurant a few times since it was sold and feel it's really lost its flavor. The change is culture is very much apparent and the addition of the TV destroys the ambiance. The food is acceptable but I have the feeling there was no joy in the preparation.”
29. Anonymous said... on Oct 9, 2009 at 08:07PM
“Remember when the employees tried to unionize and Wicks fought the effort? If they had been unionized, then many of these changes would have been avoidable, particularly the rampant firing and negative changes in culture. Unionizing protects the long term interests of the employees and the business. It's sad that Wicks's overconfidence in her system clouded this effort, it's apparent she was definitely wrong.”
30. Anonymous said... on Oct 9, 2009 at 09:14PM
“listen people the white dog was bought, end of story! New owners, new employee's, new chefs! Sorry so many of you are heartbroken but get over it, there are more important things to worry about in the world.”
31. J said... on Oct 10, 2009 at 09:39AM
“it was nice to see this piece... i had heard many good things about working at the white dog, and when i had the chance to be a part of that team i jumped at it... i was sorely disappointed to find out that the new owners are just trying to ride the wave of the white dog that was... all it took for me to leave was the whole kitchen staff being told at a meeting that we were all expendable in the eyes of new fancy schmancy exec. chef mark andelbradt who wants to make the white dog his next golden egg... oh that and the fact that a BLT costs $13 bucks...”
32. Anonymous said... on Oct 12, 2009 at 10:51AM
“i worked at the dog for a few years before the transition, and i found the place incredibly mismanaged. We were always 86 ing food items and wine, never had enough glass ware, silver ware, whether the soup was vegetarian was a mystery due to shift changes... we were running the asylum, yes, because we rarely had any competent management (this started at the very top and worked its way down) !! Every one who worked there did the best they could despite the circumstances. the opportunity for the workers to buy the restaurant was NEVER offered (it may have been discussed privately between the Owner and non-employees). it is so sad to me that all of us, who wanted to do a good job, were blamed for the lack of investment that the owner put in the restaurant. i wouldn't eat at the new white dog for one, because it's too expensive, but also because i don't like supporting a chain that uses "social responsibility" as a marketing tactic.”
33. Anonymous said... on Oct 12, 2009 at 02:20PM
“I don't know much about the White Dog, but after reading this article I decided to look up an inspection report from before the new ownership took over.
http://philly.everyblock.com/restaurant-inspections/by-date/2009/1/9/528322/
Chicken, beef, and cheese in a refrigerator at 71F? Disgusting. A mouse infestation? Gross.
It seems like the changes are definitely for the better.”
34. Anonymous said... on Oct 13, 2009 at 11:39AM
“Wow, that "brokenhearted chef" sure sounds like a whiny bitch. Takeovers happen and employees get left behind - it's a shame, but that's just life. Especially since commenter #21 is right - the staff taking advantage of Judy sounds about right to me, particularly the parts about not showing up if you didn't feel like it and getting high at work.”
35. TheOtherPerspective said... on Oct 13, 2009 at 04:57PM
“I was a server at the White Dog after the change in ownership, but left to go back to school. I had a great time while I worked there, and only heard negative things about the previous ownership. I cannot believe something so obviously biased by disgruntled ex-employees could even be printed by a somewhat reputable newspaper.
Everyone seems to have such a nostalgic and idealistic image of what the White Dog used to be. Sure, the concept was great. However, the reality is that the business was failing in more ways than one. Drinking and drug use was rampant in the kitchen as well as in the front of the house staff. There was a tremendous mouse problem. When the kitchen was cleaned from top to bottom, a gallon of milk from 2006 was found in one of the walk-ins. This was in January of 2009. Such gross neglect from a kitchen staff is bordering on criminally negligent, yet everyone wants to make the old kitchen staff martyrs.
”
36. TheOtherPerspective said... on Oct 13, 2009 at 04:58PM
“The old staff proudly reminisced about the "good old days" where someone actually had sex on table 48 during service. They were not shy to admit that drinking and drug use while on the clock was considered acceptable. Andrew Brzozowski, one of the disgruntled ex-employees referenced in the article, once laughingly told a story of when another ex-employee accidentally went to a table with cocaine on her nose.
A guest came in after the change in ownership. She told me she had not dined at the white dog in over five years, because of her last experience. She said she saw mice running around in the "bar and grill" area. She said it was disgusting on three levels. One, there were mice running around. Two, the staff was nonchalant and simply said "the mice come out at night." Three, the staff did nothing to fix the problem.
”
37. TheOtherPerspective said... on Oct 13, 2009 at 04:59PM
“THIS is what the white dog used to be. Not what the disgruntled ex-employees will have you believe.
Fast forward to January 2009. The restaurant was completely cleaned, front and back of the house. The kitchen staff was let go for very valid reasons. The front of the house staff was given an opportunity to be a part of a reputable restaurant group. Food and service standards were brought to where they should have been for years. This is how you represent local, organic food. This is how you support local farms. By running a successful business that values fresh local food and friendly service. Not by being a haven for pseudo-intellectual underachievers who want to pretend they stand for something but really just want to coast through life getting drunk and high all day.
The media always loves a villain. I’m sure a variation of this same article would have been written regardless of who purchased the White Dog. It's a great angle, but so much for objective journalism
”
38. elltee said... on Oct 19, 2009 at 08:12AM
“What should we expect with the new White Dog, under construction on Lancaster Avenue in Wayne? Will it be based on the premise of the original White Dog, or more like the Chili's down the street? It may be a long time before we find out; construction on the place seems to have come to a standstill. No work seems to have gone on for months (altho a liquor permit notice is posted on the door) and the rest of the new 'strip center' is like a ghost town.”