Georges Perrier's newest restaurant is right at home at Boyd's.
The dessert list has designer appeal: Rum-soaked chocolate mousse and genoise layer cake, strawberry-shortcake-ish frasier and cinnamon-and-sugared pecan coffee cake bear Le Bec-Fin's label. Unfortunately, these cakes are more label than substance. All three taste like the gleaming pastry case they resided in.
But the Brasserie Perrier creme brulee suffers not from a furlough in the fridge. It comes just warm, with a delicious nearly burnt, fun-to-crack crust, a golden pudding center, a pretty vanilla bean bottom-and a $6 price tag.