Philadelphia Weekly

There's much hyperventilating (among those who hyperventilate about such things) about the quality of sushi to be found just over the bridge in Le Jerz. There's Sagami, which I find quite enjoyable. And there's Fuji, which also has developed a serious reputation, and which I just visited for the first time.

While I found Fuji no better or worse than any other sushi spot in the area, I couldn't help but wonder what all the fuss was about. And there's been quite a bit of fuss.

The buzz is that it's the spot to go for omakase--the individualized tasting menu sushi chefs create for a set price (at Fuji, $50 and up). Omakase must be ordered in advance, allowing the chef to order the special ingredients and prepare for the experience. So you can't just decide to have it on the spur of the moment--not at Fuji anyway.

Buzz also says the "regular" menu is nothing special. This makes me suspicious. What kind of restaurant makes only the big-ticket items worth eating? I was determined to go to Fuji and eat only from the regular hot and sushi menus.

Fuji feels very ... nice. It has an intimate vibe despite being hidden in the back of a Georgian-style shopping mall in the middle of Haddonfield. Water trickles over large river stones in wall-mounted fountains, the sushi bar is well-lit and attractively arranged, and the staff is very friendly.

So what brings Fuji out of the realm of nice and into extra-special? Not much. Everything was perfectly pleasant, but nothing indicated this was a restaurant worth braving the Jersey roads.

Take the pan-fried dumplings. They were attractively fanned pockets packed with pork and shrimp, but no better or worse than dumplings I've had elsewhere. Agedashi tofu--a dish comprised of creamy blocks of tempura-battered tofu in a light dashi (fish broth)--was dull and couldn't hold a candle to the deeply flavorful version served at Shiroi Hana in Center City.

A special of giant softshell crab fried in a pink rice "batter" was better, offering the briny sweetness of the sea paired with the shattering crispness and bubbled texture of puffed rice. Plus, it's always fun to eat pink food.

Eggplant miso--a delectable meeting of soft, squishy eggplant and sweet miso--had the enticing, creamy consistency of a warm peanut butter and banana sandwich. Sagami's is better, but Fuji's was nice.

Ankimo--a sort of pate of monkfish liver, sometimes referred to as the "foie gras of the sea"--had a strong nautical note, a bit more than I wanted or needed. It was certainly unctuous and had that melt-in-your-mouth texture that makes landlubbing foie gras such a prized delicacy. But the spicy sauce it was served in didn't pack any of the promised fiery punch.

A sushi and sashimi platter was fresh and elegantly (though not especially artfully) presented. It was replete with the usual suspects: salmon, tuna, the intensely boring "white tuna," striped bass and a tuna roll. The specialty rainbow roll was, like all specialty rolls, big and precarious and difficult to pop in your mouth without looking like a fool, but an easy-to-enjoy combination of tuna, salmon and flounder nonetheless.

The excellent desserts were a surprise, from a tempura-fried banana with ice cream that was wonderfully crackly and sweet, to a lovely chocolate creme brulee. Fried ice cream with honey sauce was also quite delicious and succeeded in making me feel guilty on all fronts: sugary, fatty and fried.

It was a nice way to end a perfectly nice meal at a perfectly nice restaurant I'm sure I'll never visit again. That omakase may well be worth it, but the regular menu isn't anything you can't find this side of the Delaware.

Fuji
116 E. Kings Hwy., Haddonfield, N.J. 856.354.8200
Cuisine: Japanese/sushi.
Hours: Tues.-Thurs., 11:30am-2pm and 5-9:30pm; Fri.-Sat., 11:30am-2pm and 5-10:30pm; Sun., 11:30am-2pm and 4-9pm.
Prices: $2.50-$32.
Sound advice: Reasonable for a small spot.
Atmosphere: Japanese garden hidden in a shopping gallery.
Service: Friendly, a little pushy.
Food: Sushi, so?