Roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, lacquered with honey and arriving a shimmering, burnished mahogany color, were a study in flavor-layering.
Black bass with cockles embodied the season perfectly: Each delicate bite of fish, dragged through the zucchini-basil purée, was like a transmogrification of the farmers market onto the plate.
Rough-mashed with the perfect amount of lime (i.e.: mucho), onions, tomatoes and cilantro, it’s a study in the seemingly disproportionate joys of simplicity and balance.
Octopus, borne upon a pedestal of congee, arrives cocooned in char from the grill after a leisurely poaching in a bath of olive, lemon, sambal and more.
This beautiful wine region, while relatively small in terms of the amount of land under vine, is having a significant impact on serious American wine lists.