Tacos play a far greater role now than they did before Lolita’s reconcepting. From the much-heralded trompo, I was easily won over by the pork shoulder ones, the meat lovingly rubbed with smoked morita chile, garlic, and piloncillo
Roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, lacquered with honey and arriving a shimmering, burnished mahogany color, were a study in flavor-layering.
Black bass with cockles embodied the season perfectly: Each delicate bite of fish, dragged through the zucchini-basil purée, was like a transmogrification of the farmers market onto the plate.
Rough-mashed with the perfect amount of lime (i.e.: mucho), onions, tomatoes and cilantro, it’s a study in the seemingly disproportionate joys of simplicity and balance.
The brew is a soft reddish orange with touches of pink. It’s faintly flowery without smelling like perfume.