The food on South Street shares the same DNA as the NoLibs original, the same menu of comforting, fairly priced classics and riffs. The potato latkes remain addictive. Eggs, as always, are done impeccably, from the simple to the baroque.
Their pho, to begin, is excellent, built on a base of broth whose clarity and purity of flavor sets it apart. Unlike so many more deeply developed pho broths in the city, this one is unique for its lightness, delicacy and remarkable freshness. Unfortunately, the beef balls were another story.
Long before “farm to table” had ever been uttered and well before Michael Pollan had become a household name among a certain type of food-focused Americans, there was the White Dog Cafe.
So much of the food here evinces Ba’s ability to take a relatively short list of ingredients and transmogrify them into something infinitely greater than the sum of their individual parts. The onions defining the yassa chicken, for example, were as sweet and creamy as slices of perfectly ripe mango.
Fans see it for what it is: a refreshing, easy drinking beer that seems ready made for a summer day. It’s brewed with apricots — or rather, apricot extract — but not so much that it’s embarrassingly fruity.