Octopus, borne upon a pedestal of congee, arrives cocooned in char from the grill after a leisurely poaching in a bath of olive, lemon, sambal and more.
Boiled sliced lamb in chili sauce was infinitely more than that humble description, a stunning mountain of earthy meat joined by petals of sweet onions, thick slices of nutty garlic, and snappy broccoli florets.
I would have bet a thousand dollars even before it opened that the new Wynnewood location of Sabrina’s Café, which already has three popular sites around Philadelphia, would be a success in relatively short order.
Under new leadership, the Passyunk favorite finds sweets cavorting with meats alongside peppercorn beer on tap.
Bitterness is low, instead replaced with some dark fruit, caramel, and faint spices. The chewy, grainy finish leaves you feeling as if you just drank something with real substance—because you did.