The taste is dank and green with hops—juicy citrus, intoxicating pine, and just enough bready malts to provide balance. In fact, despite all those hops, this beer does not bombard you with bitterness.
Black bass with cockles embodied the season perfectly: Each delicate bite of fish, dragged through the zucchini-basil purée, was like a transmogrification of the farmers market onto the plate.
Rough-mashed with the perfect amount of lime (i.e.: mucho), onions, tomatoes and cilantro, it’s a study in the seemingly disproportionate joys of simplicity and balance.
Octopus, borne upon a pedestal of congee, arrives cocooned in char from the grill after a leisurely poaching in a bath of olive, lemon, sambal and more.