This is a giant, roasty, chocolate-heavy imperial stout of epic proportions. A whopping 10 percent ABV put it in the heavyweight class. A blistering 98 IBUs makes it as bitter as the most aggressive of IPAs.
Black bass with cockles embodied the season perfectly: Each delicate bite of fish, dragged through the zucchini-basil purée, was like a transmogrification of the farmers market onto the plate.
Rough-mashed with the perfect amount of lime (i.e.: mucho), onions, tomatoes and cilantro, it’s a study in the seemingly disproportionate joys of simplicity and balance.
Octopus, borne upon a pedestal of congee, arrives cocooned in char from the grill after a leisurely poaching in a bath of olive, lemon, sambal and more.