California’s Coronado Brewing Co., newly arrived in Philly in just the last couple of years, dishes out one of those treats every winter with Stupid Stout, an absurdly rich beverage that you’ll want to take your time to savor.
When things go right at the Grain Exchange—as they do throughout the smart menu—they succeed for reasons of detail.
The crisp-skinned beauties luxuriated in a shimmering, salty-sweet-spicy glaze, and each bite was a study in the importance of balancing high-wire levels of sweetness, saltiness and heat.
Tacos play a far greater role now than they did before Lolita’s reconcepting. From the much-heralded trompo, I was easily won over by the pork shoulder ones, the meat lovingly rubbed with smoked morita chile, garlic, and piloncillo