Rather than going with a generic diner staple, he opted to highlight Trolley Car’s selection of less traditional fare. And instead of testing my culinary skills by having me prepare the dish step by step alongside him, Dwight decided to test my gastrointestinal fortitude by feeding me plate after plate of food.
I showed up dressed like an official member of the El Rey wait staff in jeans and a flannel shirt—then stepped inside their kitchen, smelled all the seasoned meats and spicy sauces around me, and watched my hopes of blending in fly right out the window.
Being the generous Italian that he is, Chef Kristian Leuzzi, owner of both Kris and Stogie Joe’s in South Philly, most certainly wasn’t going to let me leave my personalized cooking lesson, or his restaurant, without a solid lunch in my stomach: a braised veal short-rib sandwich with a side of gnocchi.
This past summer, my editor and I decided that it might be interesting to review my family’s Thanksgiving dinner. My mother took it to heart. And as the weeks leading up to the feast ticked by, she put the word out—to my father, to my wife, probably to my 2-year-old daughter—that she was killing herself, literally breaking her back (her words, verbatim) preparing for the big meal.
IPA makers go for nothing more than a blast of bitter, Sculpin offers the kind of tasteful balance others could learn from. Tastes and aromas of apricot, mango and peach are touched with just a hint of pine resin.
Savor a crunchy fried chicken breast lavished with sweet-spicy maple jalapeño yogurt glaze, all of it sandwiched with bacon between the geometry of house-made cheddar waffles. It’s called the “Yo Cuz,” and no hangover is a match for its crave-able charms.
Octopus, cooked sous vide and then charred to order, was streaked with unexpected notes of cinnamon and chili flakes: Dynamite. It would have been better had it been slightly more tender, but it still arrived plenty addictive on its bed of peppery arugula.
Chef Justin Bogle and co. have successfully pulled off what many thought would be impossible: replacing a Philadelphia icon.