Eat Beat

FOOD

By Kirsten Henri

Add Comment | Comments: 0 | Posted Jul. 4, 2007

Preview It!

I get that warm and fuzzy civic pride feeling every time a bar like St. Stephens Green opens in Philly. We might not be able to win a national sports championship (or so sports fans tell me--I wouldn't know a touchdown if it fell in my lap), or entirely shake off our reputation as fat, hostile, Rocky-obsessed cheesesteak-eaters, but boy do we open some great bars and pubs. Located in the long-shuttered Cuvee Notredame space in Fairmount, this corner spot with its long, lovely bar and wraparound windows just about beams with local pub goodness. It's no surprise considering owners James Stephens and Jeff Keel are both veteran publicans (of Bishop's Collar and Black Sheep, respectively). While they've got the atmosphere down, the food isn't quite as exciting. Lamb skewers and a quesadilla were both bland, and french fries were on the soggy side. A veggie grinder offered more satisfaction, especially when chased with a pint of sharp, intensely hoppy Acme California IPA. >> St. Stephens Green, 17th and Green sts. 215.769.5000

Try It!

Pizza perfection? Not quite, but there's a new contender in the passable pizza in Philadelphia category. Slice, located smack in the center of the chowhound corridor that runs from Cheesesteak Central to the Italian Market, offers a very respectable, very thin-crust margherita pizza. It's commendable for its lack of sweetness, its use of juicy San Marzano tomato sauce and its crunchy crust. Bright basil leaves neatly laid on top emit a powerful burst of garden-fresh fragrance. This isn't a pizza to munch on cold after it's been idling in its box--eat it quickly or reheat it. Should you desire, Slice also offers some of the Philly pizza perversions you may or may not approve of: barbecued chicken pizza and that weird arranged marriage of American cheese and hot peppers "pizzazz." >> Slice, 10th and Federal sts. 215.463.0868

Sip It!

All babies are cute and all sangria is drinkable. That's not completely true: Who doesn't know an ugly baby? And let's be honest, some sangrias are brandied sugarbombs. The zippy white sangria at Washington Square is fortunately neither a hideous child nor a stinky drink. This riff on the traditional recipe involves applejack brandy, riesling, muddling, marinating, citrus in various forms and an exuberant spritz of sparkling apple cider. Which leaves you with a delightfully fresh and vibrant summer sipper served by the glass or by the pitcher. It might not make that ugly baby cute, but it could do wonders for the weirdo at the end of the bar. >> Washington Square, 210 W. Washington Sq. 215.592.7787