An abandoned firehouse begged for rescue. Bet it didn’t think the Mad (River) Men were listening.
“The only thing that connects Ladder 15 with Mad River are the people who own it,” says Max Tucker, one of those people. The ’80s rock anthems, the sexy-and-they-know-it female staff, the Heinekens and Jaeger bombs are all just your imagination.
There are positives about this pseudo-gastropub—consulting chef Mike Stollenwerk (Little Fish), cheap Center City Sips specials, a good-looking design that’s equal parts turn-of-the-century firehouse and 21st-century urban loft—but the food, a small-plate mishmash executed by chef Ann Campbell (London Grill, White Dog), was not one of them.
After some rightfully acid-tongued reviews, Tucker, Campbell and co-owners Mike Mastellone and Michael Kearney overhauled the menu. Portions grew. Prices did not. Three new items appeared. Seven didn’t make it in the merger. I give props; all chefs and restaurateurs should be so receptive to criticism and willing to change what doesn’t work. But is the new and improved Ladder 15 really new and improved? See for yourself.
Visit No. 1: Wednesday, 6:35 p.m.
Visit No. 2: Thursday, 6:15 p.m.
Visit No. 1: Flying Fish Belgian Abbey Dubbel, draft, $4 .
Visit No. 2: Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA, bottle, $4 .
Visit No. 1: Sausage party .
Visit No. 2: Happy hour suits .
Visit No. 1: Not quite cool, hanging on the place like a belt-clipped Nextel on a pair of pleated khakis .
Visit No. 2: Convivial and clamorous.
Visit No. 1: 4
Visit No. 2: 1
Visit No. 1: Rolled steel chandeliers and caged siren pendants, custom-made by metalworker Steve Bradley .
Visit No. 2: The crackling fireplace, stoked with real wood .
Visit No. 1: The lack of a kitchen door, affording views of a conspicuous mousetrap .
Visit No. 2: The lack of a kitchen door, affording views of a conspicuous mousetrap .
Visit No. 1: 9
Visit No. 2: 5
Visit No. 1: “We Are Penn State” chant .
Visit No. 2: Spilled tray of Cotton Candy cosmos and Fun Dip martinis .
Visit No. 1: Soft pretzel-and-corned beef sandwich (pictured); root beer ribs; potato-and-scallion pierogi in brown butter; green apple-and-celery slaw; roasted chicken and pecan waffles with sherry syrup; milk chocolate-pretzel pie .
Visit No. 2: Corn-and-crab hush puppies; short rib quesadillas; buffalo chicken “lollipops”; prime sirloin burger with red onion marmalade, smoked paprika mayo and Manchego on brioche; “Golf Cart Salad” of baby arugula, avocado, corn, cucumbers, seared tuna and lemon-poppy dressing; cotton candy .
Visit No. 1: 2:4
Visit No. 2: 4:2
Visit No. 1: The soft pretzel sandwich, salty, soft, warm and thoroughly Philly. Still, a slick of less timid mustard would have thrown more sparks.
Visit No. 2: The burger, a tightrope walk of beefiness, sweetness and smokiness on a burnished Metropolitan brioche bun. It’s infinitely better than pricier burgers elsewhere.
Visit No. 1: The root beer-glazed ribs, a sacrilegious misappropriation of my favorite beverage on earth. Though the pork was tender and fell off the bone, the spice notes made the ribs taste like they were dry-rubbed in potpourri.
Visit No. 2: The “lollipops,” actually chicken drumsticks with their bones frenched into pretty pops, slowly confited in duck fat and tossed in house-made Buffalo sauce. Tender? Yes, thanks to the confit, but utterly lacking crispness. Served with flaccid strips of celery and thin, watery ranch dressing.
Visit No. 1: Five dishes, one table, all at once .
Visit No. 2: Five dishes, safely divided into two courses.
Visit No. 1: 3
Visit No. 2: 1
Visit No. 1: Flighty and kinda gruff, couldn’t find her half the night .
Visit No. 2: Sunny and thoughtful, asked if we wanted another round before happy hour specials were done.
Visit No. 1: Hooks on the pub tables for umbrellas and purses.
Visit No. 2: Cute, cool, complimentary cone of cotton candy presented with the check .
Change is good, and even if the crowd can sometimes feel like a douchebag convention and the drink list is stuck in 1999, Stollenwerk and Campbell have created some dishes worth seeking out. Go for the burger. Just don’t order a Heinekin with it.
Ladder 15 , 1528 Sansom St. 215.964.9755. ladder15philly.com . Daily, 11am-10pm; Bar till 2am. Prices: $4-$14
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1. grm1 said... on Jun 24, 2009 at 09:47AM
“Not much else to add...this review nailed it!”
2. ck said... on Jun 24, 2009 at 11:46AM
“Billy Joel? Seriously, WTF!?!?!?”
3. Teresa said... on Jun 24, 2009 at 03:00PM
“I ordered the seared tuna and it came out on a BRICK OF SALT. I asked if they reused the salt bricks for all orders, but only after I licked my finger(without thinking) to see what the brick was. The waitress said yes they reused the bricks and she didn't know how they were sanitized-but YES they were sanitized. So am I eating a brick of salt that has been in a dishwasher? Is it cleaned with a rag
I have been so grossed out by this ever since. I didn't want to make a big deal because we were in a big group, but I was totally disgusted with the reusable,magically sanitized brick of salt that I don't think I can go back.”
4. anon. said... on Jun 24, 2009 at 03:47PM
“In respnse to Teresa----
Salt bricks are used in many restaurants across the nation to serve meat and seafood on. They present a unique way to serve tuna, and add flavor to the dish. Every time they are washed with warm water a layer of salt comes off. Salt has inherent antimicrobial properties which make it clean and safe to use as so many restaurants do. To make you feel better about your experience here is a link to a website where they are sold. They are self sanitizing items, and are cleaned exactly as the website says to. http://www.salttraders.com/Detail.bok?no=124”
5. Anonymous said... on Jun 25, 2009 at 08:35AM
“As one of the waitresses here at Ladder 15, and the one that talked to Teresa about the sanitation on the salt brick -- Ladder 15 has made leaps and bounds. I feel as though we were always a great bar, and now I feel as though we're becoming a greater restaurant. I really appreciate this review, though the jabs at our breasts are a little uncomfortable. (What bar doesn't have them?) And though I regret that you did not enjoy our lollipops, they are our biggest seller and are loved by many, I am really happy about the things you did enjoy.
And Teresa, I am sorry that I did not explain thoroughly about the salt brick sanitation. But they are cleaned and salt is a natural sanitizer. I insure you that everything is scrubbed down, because I and those I work with are the ones that do it.
To all new comers -- WELCOME AND ENJOY! :)
-A sunny waitress with sometimes (but def not always) gratuitous cleavage.”
6. Tired of being let down said... on Jun 30, 2009 at 02:29PM
“By ALL means, bring on the "aesthetically appealing" bartenders. However, PLEASE let them know what they are doing! I went to the Ladder 15 the first week they opened and it was apparent that they were still working out some kinks. The bar staff seemed confused as how to make drinks, close a tab and overall uncertain as to how to work behind a bar. I WASN'T upset actually!! Being in the service industry for many years, I completely understand that even if you think you have all your bases covered with a new staff, things are still going to come up. Of course, I returned a month later, expecting that the bar staff wold be cruising like a well oiled machine. To quote Borat, "not so much." If you're going to have Guiness on draft, instruct your staff as to the CORRECT way to pour one so that patrons(ie: myself and others) does not receive two pints, back to back, where half the glass is a foamy head. Must have the been the "buy 2 that equal one" special they were running that day”