Sancho Pistola’s isn’t screwing around with you about brunch

By Brian Freedman
Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 0 | Posted Jul. 9, 2014

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Photo courtesy Sancho Pistola's

It is, perhaps, the single greatest brunch-menu introduction in the city right now—a straightforward, honest direct address to the guest: “On the off chance you’re hung over while reading this, we’ll keep it simple. For $30, you choose one appetizer, one entree, and one side. You will eat them. You also buy the ability to drink unlimited mimosas, margaritas and Bloody Marys for two hours. If you need to drink more than that, you have problems. Please enjoy brunch. Everything is available a la carte.”

Oh, if only everything were this easy on a tender, post-binge Saturday or Sunday morning! And while $30 may not seem like a great deal at first glance for three brunch-time courses, the entirety of the offer is tough to beat, especially if you plan on taking advantage of that limitless two-hour-drinking offer.

Happily, the food itself also goes a long way toward justifying the expense: A recent weekend brunch—it’s offered Saturdays and Sundays between 11am and 3pm, in addition to the restaurant’s regular hours—was both decidedly tasty and stupendously filling.

Tortilla soup, anchored by a pasilla-amped chicken broth of serious richness, also boasted delicious pulls of chicken as well as a veritable flotilla of avocado, queso fresco, crema and a tangle of tortilla strips. Eggs benedicto is enough for two as a result of its stunning heartiness, the chorizo and black beans perfect foils for a chipotle hollandaise that you’ll want to lick from the plate. Plantains, sweet and spicy, should absorb any excess alcohol from the night before and, in the process, sooth any remaining jangled nerves.

The regular menu is available as well, and if you’re looking to bash the previous night’s demons from your system with lightness instead of decadence, then the tuna tacos are a great option, each one piled generously with ruby-shimmering hunks of charred fish swirling with togarashi.

Everything about that brunch-menu preamble, it turns out, is correct: You will order, you will eat and drink, you will enjoy. It’s nice to discover real truth in advertising.

SANCHO PISTOLA’S
19 W. Girard Ave. 267.324.3530. sanchopistolas.com

Cuisine: Tacos, plus a smattering of international pub food.
Hours: Mon.-Fri., 4pm-2am; Sat.-Sun., 11am-2am (brunch until 3pm).

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