Bobby's Burger Palace

Slammin' shakes and sides compliment the inconsistent burgers at this West Philly spot.

By Adam Erace
Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 6 | Posted Jun. 29, 2010

Share this Story:

Burger Malice: Great fries, great shake, sloppy burger

Photo by Michael Persico

Somewhere in Orlando, Fla., the line for Splash Mountain was blushing. Back here in Philly, the queue of hungry people poured out of the double doors of Bobby’s Burger Palace, a millipede of rowdy undergrads, prim secretaries, bespectacled Laureates, off-duty cops, West Philadelphians (born and raised) and Bridge-goers missing their movies.

Inside, where the walls wear condiment-colored suspenders (French’s yellow, Heinz red, Bull’s-eye brown, A-1 maroon), the line snaked around turnstiles and through lanes. Back and forth. Back and forth. A fake-out line, a term my brother coined as a kid for the sneaky queues at Disney World. Ten minutes passed. Twenty. Thirty ...

Corporate says the average wait from entering to eating is five to eight minutes. In my case, they were only about 40 minutes off the mark.

The rest of the Rockwell Group-designed space is stained relish-green, with long communal tables and a serpentine counter set beneath a matching light box, exposed ductwork and glowing cippollini-shaped baubles. All 71 seats were taken.

This is the magnetic appeal of Bobby’s Burger Palace, the (supposedly)-quick-serve West Philly operation inspired by chef and TV personality Bobby Flay’s boyhood summers at the Jersey Shore. The first location outside the New York region landed on the ground floor of University City’s fly Radian compound in April, an immediate hit with carnivores and fans of the Food Network chef. Eyes eagerly scanned the crowd. A woman bumped into me. Is that a Sharpie in her pocket?

But the charismatic Flay does not make the burgers here. In fact, if he saw what was being passed off as burgers the night I dined, the grill guru would blind himself with the nearest pair of tongs.

I could like the Napa Valley Burger, with Vermont goat cheese and Meyer-lemon honey mustard, had it not been built as carelessly as Depression-era tenement housing. There was more cheese than there was beef—the creamy mound half off the edge of the sandwich like a muffin-top on too-tight jeans—and the mustard was undetectable. The Buffalo Style Burger was just as messy, slimed by the cooks with not-hot hot sauce and not-tangy blue-cheese dressing. It was a Rorschach test of black and white and orange, a 5-year-old Flyers fan’s fingerpaint disaster. Both burgers came garnished with wet, wilted watercress you wouldn’t feed a homeless rabbit.

Composed of an 80/20 blend of Midwest-grown Angus steer, the patties were the inexplicable silver lining, cooked according to a four-step method. Season. Sear. Flip. Steam. A sign in the kitchen reads, “Bobby says melt the cheese completely,” so for burgers topped with sliced Cheddar or American, the method goes: Season. Sear. Flip. Steam. Cheese. Steam. That first visit, both burgers came cooked correctly to an even medium pink. On a follow-up lunch, the L.A. Burger, cheddar-veiled and avocado-topped, was much more photogenic (and took just 10 minutes), but the temperature through the half-inch-thick patty varied bite by bite, well-done in one spot, medium-rare another. At least the watercress was fresh.

While the Palace’s burgers lack consistency, the rest of the menu performs well. Hot, crisp and salty, the huge onion rings could orbit Saturn. Meanwhile, the fries are the Jack and Karen to the burgers’ Will and Grace, supporting cast outshining stars with stalactite edges that catch on blobs of chipotle mayo. The BBP crew fashions fries from sweet potatoes, too; they look like orange Crayolas arranged upright in their squat square tins. A sidecar of honey horseradish sauce rolls with, and condiment caddies pepper the counter’s Joan Holloway curves, old-school squeeze bottles pumping new-school squirts like chipotle ketchup and jalapeño jam.

And the shakes! Eleven ounces of Edy’s for every 16-ounce shake creates creamy, cement-thick foundations for flavors that follow (vanilla, chocolate, strawberry) and rebel against (mango, blueberry-pomegranate, cola) ice-cream parlor etiquette. I loved the nutty, exotic pistachio and the chocolate—dark, not too sweet and best malted. There’s Simply Lemonade and Jersey-bred Boylans soda, too, if you’re feeling like a prudent bore, but I’ll stick with the caramel-swirled vanilla shake spiked with a slug of smoky Jim Beam.

Just expect to be carded. You must be this tall to ride.

For more on Philly food, visit blogalicious-adam.blogspot.com.

3925 Walnut St.

215.387.0378.

bobbysburgerpalace.com

Cuisine: Burgers & Fries.

Hours: Sun.-Thurs., 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat., 11am-11pm.

Prices: $2.50-$8.50

Atmosphere: Fun, colorful and crowded as a carnival.

Page: 1 2 |Next
Add to favoritesAdd to Favorites PrintPrint Send to friendSend to Friend

COMMENTS

Comments 1 - 6 of 6
Report Violation

1. pete said... on Jun 30, 2010 at 12:04PM

“...sounds like ,"trouble in your toilet", 12-24
hours later no matter how well it is done
by the kitchen. That much red meat being
processed cannot escape the laws of
probability in context to bacteria being
present. The bowel clenches just reading
this. If they don't care about presentation
and plating dynamics then they don't
care about food safety dynamics either.
Bless their hearts.”

Report Violation

2. DP4SHORE said... on Jul 1, 2010 at 11:35AM

“Been to BBP in Monmouth Mall, Eatontown, NJ many times. The food and experience has been great every time.”

Report Violation

3. Margate Mike said... on Jul 1, 2010 at 06:48PM

“Over the top burgers are as played out as celebrity chefs, 'gourmet' food trucks, sliders, cup cakes and other desperate moves to appear inventive. Sorry for your experience but glad you say it blows.

What type of Philadelphian ques up to be fed like a critter at Disney's Typhoon Lagoon.? Seriously.”

Report Violation

4. embroidery punching said... on Aug 18, 2010 at 01:29AM

“Very outstanding website.embroidery punching,Nice post — this really hits home for me.Now lets see if I can do something productive with it.embroidery punching,
embroidery DST,I am definitely bookmarking this page and sharing it with my friends.Your work has always been a great source of inspiration for me.machine embroidery digitizing, I refer you blog to many of my friends as well.Keep posting stuff like this i really like it.but I’ll stick with the caramel-swirled vanilla shake spiked with a slug of smoky Jim Beam.

Report Violation

5. Gee said... on Sep 1, 2010 at 12:12AM

“Don't be fooled, this is an overpriced sham that is playing off a TV name. Nothing special here, move along. All burgers come with cheese so if you want to ease fat intake you have to pay for cheese. Cruchify merely means adding chips. Prices are too high for a normal size burger that is undercooked -- I like pink, not deep purple -- Trendy joint that gives nothing above the average local strip mall shop. Sauces were not good and i stuck with their ketchup with was inferior to Heinz but the best sauce option. Best to go to a Fuddruckers and have a much larger burger for a fraction of the cost. For the price of a standard flay burger at Fuddruckers you can get a huge healthy Buffalo, Elk, Ostrich, burger or a regular huge beef one for a couple bucks less... with free fixins and $1.00 beers. I will not be fooled again; I will not go to Bobby's just because of his name being on it... what a waste of time and resources... Why? Just so I could say I went there? No thanks.”

Report Violation

6. Gee said... on Sep 1, 2010 at 12:17AM

“... I forgot to mention that the place is not very clean. the men's room was filthy and the door didn't lock. No paper towels or air dry machines. Found a bug crawling on our table also, a tiny hoppy one.”

ADD COMMENT

Rate:
(HTML and URLs prohibited)