Philly's Best (And Worst) Fries

PW samples the city's tastiest tubers.

By Tim McGinnis
Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 0 | Posted Apr. 14, 2009

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Fries at the Ugly American are hand-cut and fried to a crispy, deep golden brown.

Photo by Michael Persico

Ah, the humble potato, born in the Peruvian Andes, consumed en masse by starving Irish peasants and made into a children’s toy by the Hasbro, Inc. Company. It can be mashed, smashed, baked, boiled and gratined, but the favorite way to consume this tasty tuber has to be fried. The French fry is so simple and yet so perfect, is it any wonder the American rate of consumption directly correlates to the skyrocketing rise of obesity?

Key

T: Thick cut

S: Shoestring

O: Skin on

C: Crispy

G: Greasy

If You Want to Bump Uglies

Across the pond Americans are considered boorish, ignorant philistines (thanks W!), but the Ugly American (1100 S. Front St. 215.336.1100) celebrates our idiosyncratic ways by centering their menu around regional American food. The fries are some of the best in the city. Hand-cut and fried to a crispy, deep golden brown, a few tons of these shipped abroad would do wonders for our foreign relations. O C

If You’re a Franchisee

Let us preface this review with Field Guide’s philosophy on chain restaurants—they suck. But after visiting Five Guys Burgers and Fries (1527 Chestnut St. 215.972.1375) we feel we need to add an “except here” amendment to our credo. The huge portion of spicy Cajun fries for under $5 are hand-cut from only Idaho potatoes. To tackle the oversaturated burger-and-fry market and make a dent is quite an achievement; to do so with superb quality is a revolution. O C

If You Like to Drink Your Starches Too

The skin-on steak fries at South Philadelphia Tap Room (1509 Mifflin St. 215.271.7787) are extra-thick wedges of Russet potato goodness. Just a sprinkle of malt vinegar and a pint of beer from the bar’s region-centric beer list is all you’ll need to make these spuds the perfect alcohol-soaking snack. Try Yards’ new Brawler beer if you want to go a couple rounds. T O C

If Thinner Is the Winner

At the Continental Midtown (1801 Chestnut St. 215.567.1800) they’re frying up crispy bird’s nests of Szechuan shoestring fries that are thinner than John Waters’ mustache. The fries are then drizzled with a peppery Chinese mustard sauce. It’s the best reason to, as Overbrook natives the Dovells sang, “Do the New Continental.” S C

If You Ride the Wave

One of the original gastropubs in Philly, the New Wave Café (784 S. Third St. 215.922.8484) is a forerunner of the good-food-in-a-bar movement that has been sweeping pub culture. Their boardwalk-style fries, tossed with salt and pepper, are handmade and delicious. And even their sweet potato fries (the only thing not made on premises) are great. Dusted with powdered sugar, they’re crispy and saccharine-sweet. O C

If You’re Crabby

From Egg Harbor to the Linc, the sales of crab fries from Chickie’s & Pete’s Crab House and Sports Bar (1526 Packer Ave. 215.218.0500) number in the millions and have made the proprietor one of the richest dudes in the area. We still think the crispy, crinkle-cut spuds remind us a bit too much of frozen Ore-Ida fries so our advice is if it’s Old Bay you want, ask for it elsewhere. C

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