FOOD

Soul Food

Philly's best Southern-inspired food will ease your hunger and guilt.

By Tim McGinnis
Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 3 | Posted Feb. 18, 2009

Philadelphia soul: Cornbread, mac and cheese, salmon cakes and collard greens are staples. (photo by michael persico)

Ex-evangelical leader Rev. Ted Haggard is on a mission to save his mortal soul after being caught in a bizarre meth-fueled, gay-hooker extravaganza. That got us thinking: If the good reverend needs to get back in with the big guy upstairs, we at Field Guide should do a bit of self-reflection too. Now, we aren't yet up to the deviant drug-addled levels of the Christian right, but we all have skeletons in our closets and it might be time for repentance. Since repenting isn't much fun, let's push the semantic boundaries and think of soul food as a way to cleanse the spirit without all that sacrifice. So praise the Lord and pass the gravy at Philly's soul-cleansing soul food restaurants. It's easier than confession.

If You're a Football Fan

The epicenter of soul food in Philly is Brewerytown, home to Deborah's Kitchen (2608 Girard Ave. 215.763.3327). For just $10, we feasted on three fried flounder fillets with mounds of sweet-and-sour potato salad with crunchy gherkins, sugar-spiked collard greens and a moist piece of corn bread--all cooked with love by one of Marvin Harrison's aunts. T E D S

If Butter Is Better

While you're in that 'hood, stop by Butter's Soul Food To Go (2821 W. Girard Ave. 215.235.4724). Call ahead for takeout of two huge salmon cakes, smoky collard greens and corn-bread stuffing that vaguely recalls Stove Top but in a sweeter, cozy, comfort-food way. In the immortal words of Q-Tip, we "like butter, baby. Strictly butter." T E D S

If You're on the Street

Across the street from 30th Street Station is Denise's Soul Food Restaurant (30th and Market sts). The ladies make a formidable falling-off-the-bone oxtail made "the Caribbean way" with traditional rice and beans and sweet corn bread. Or hit up the spicy jerk chicken platter with sweet yams and green beans. It's soul food done the right way. C T E

If a Little Kindness Goes a Long Way

The brand new Nyanne's on Broad (4938 N. Broad St. 215.456.0508) has some of the nicest people on staff, including Nyanne's grandma who'll visit your table to personally thank you for coming. And you'll be telling the truth when you say it's no trouble at all to chow down on a well-seasoned half of a rotisserie chicken with collard greens and mac and cheese, all for $9. E D S B

If You Listen to Ms. Winfrey

When Oprah endorses something, you know it's good. Delilah's Southern Cuisine (1136 Arch St. 215.574.0929), like Barack Obama and the Williams-Sonoma Breville Ikon Panini Press, back up the Oprah talk with some quality walk. Delilah's mac and cheese--made with seven different types of cheese, including Velveeta, asiago and muenster--has become one of our favorite things too. E D S

If Family Comes First

A mother and daughter have opened Soul (8136 Germantown Ave. 215.248.0800) in Chestnut Hill, an intimate nine-table BYOB with a Creole-centric menu. Some signature dishes include baked oysters with collards and Parmesan cheese, and a traditional chicken and andouille sausage jambalaya. To make it a full family affair, Grandma came aboard to bake an apple pie � la mode and pound cake. D

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COMMENTS

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1. Tim said... on Feb 18, 2009 at 08:03AM

“Uh...thanks?”

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2. Jessieca said... on Feb 17, 2009 at 07:52PM

“According to the investigation from the site *BisexualMingle dotcom* (a site for LGBT comning out, explore sexuality, etc.), The Netherlands, South Africa, United Kingdom, Canada, Spain are the gayest countries. Not sure if true.I just know that site is very professional and there are about 150 members per day and they are very active. You can imagine.If you come here frequently, you may find what you are looking easily and quickly.”

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3. bethbeverly said... on Apr 7, 2009 at 06:58AM

“Hey Tim-
Thought you might be interested in a project involving several of these soul food joints you've mentioned above. A team of artists, musicians, property owners and restaurateurs are working on a collaborative effort to bring some much needed attention to the arts and culture scene in Brewerytown. Through a series of gallery shows catered by local soul-food establishments commencing in June, we hope to draw a significant amount of foot traffic throughout the designated area.
Please check out our blog:
www.artplussoulfood.com

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