A Pennsport eatery is puzzlingly inconsistent.
In fables and fairy tales, witches are either good or evil. Contemporary practitioners of spells, however, insist it's not so simple. I don't know if there's any such thing as a real witch, but if one can apply the theory to a wickedly named restaurant, the broom definitely fits.
At the Witch in Pennsport, there's a lot of good--the prices and liquor license, for example--but there's also plenty of bad. The beer list is so basic--the only locals are Lager and PBC Row House Red--you'll scarcely believe you're in hops heaven South Philly. (The bar's flashy mirrored wall, worthy of any circa-1975 rowhome parlor, will quickly remind you.) I'm a big believer in you like what you like, and if tasting the Rockies floats your boat, awesome. But it seems prudent to pour something crafty for Pennsport's thirsty young things.
Along with the dated Deco sconces, the mirror, mirror on the wall is a leftover of the Witch's previous incarnation, the so-brief-we-barely-knew-thee Peppercorns. Owner Danny Gallagher closed Peppercorns in July and took on partner and longtime buddy Dean Ward, the former director of operations for three local Ruth's Chris steakhouses. Gallagher and Ward renamed the restaurant the Witch after the place they met, a fiendish 500-acre golf course in Myrtle Beach.
The Witch opened in October, redecorated with local art, soft sage walls and a new chef, Bobby Saritsoglou. The American menu from the former Django sous sounded like exactly what I'd want at this kind of spot: fried oysters, sweet sausage bread pudding, cioppino, pot pie, lots of bacon--and nothing more than $22.
Dinner started well enough with snappy grissini and fluffy brioche rolls Saritsoglou bakes at the restaurant every day, but a startling lack of consistency ensued. There was perfect Maple Leaf Farms duck breast, broken down in-house, well-seasoned and slow seared in its own fat to a juicy medium-rare. There were cooked-to-death haricots verts, cinched with a rubbery bacon belt. There was bland apple cider-braised barley screaming for salt. And that was one entree.
The scallops told a similar story. Caramelized golden on the outside and still slightly raw in the middle, the shellfish were sweet pan-seared dreams over sweet-and-sour Alsatian-style purple cabbage. But the Parmesan- enriched pumpkin risotto stuffed into a hollowed-out baby pumpkin was surprisingly insipid; a shame, since--like the scallops--the creamy, tender rice itself was expertly prepared.
Dinner proceeded along the same lines. Robust, brackish crab soup made with Maryland crustaceans and house-made shellfish stock; then a puree of acorn squash and coconut milk with bacon, honeyed pear relish and a swirl of balsamic that sounded delicious but was utterly flat. In the Witch's kitchen, overcooked pork belly took on the texture of a braised short rib; the whites of an overcooked poached egg that of fresh mozzarella. The accompanying petite salad of watercress, pear and citrusy vinaigrette was a fresh, light reprieve.
I'm really not sure how to reconcile this--how these various components, some great, some terrible, could have emerged from the same sleek open kitchen in the back of the restaurant.
Dessert, Monkey's Delight, proved no better, the name being the least of its problems. It looked like it went off-roading in a hot fudge swamp and then skiing through a powdered sugar blizzard; a bit of black magic to disguise the badly burned banana beignet-- actually an ordinary deep-fried banana instead of the proper bayou doughnut. Sandwiched between two planks of puff pastry, the accompanying house-made banana sorbet was barely even chilled. I'll take the poison apple instead, please.
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1. Foodguru34 said... on Feb 7, 2009 at 11:08AM
“That's got disgruntled former employee written all over it, LOL!”
2. The King Of Risotto said... on Feb 7, 2009 at 08:02AM
“The problem with this place whether its Peppercorns or Witches is danny gallagher, he should sell the place to a real restauranteer, and go back to the docks and be a longshoreman, and as far as bobby is concerned he is just a cancer that keeps growing wherever he works. I don't know Dean Ward, but if he really wants to succeed at this place he should buy out danny and get a real chef and thou shalt be blessed by the Kitchen Gods! also danny galagher is not a respected name in Pennsport just ask around”
3. Dorthy said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 09:47PM
“Joint needs a good bar menu with late nite fare. And more tvs.”
4. ALLYblahblah said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 08:56PM
“You are all too mean! Ugh!!! Adam gives out great reviews to everyone else, someone must have pissed him off at this place, probably the owner! What a creep!”
5. MoCheeks said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 08:44PM
“I used to stop here on my way home from my old job. Now that I got no MOre work down there I havent been around too much. I like restaurants. I like bread theys bread is sho nuff tasty. Who evers make that there bread is Hi tops in my book.”
6. Shecky Lipshitz said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 08:29PM
“This place needs more than salt. It needs talent.”
7. Pete Capelli said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 07:51PM
“Lots of nay sayers over ones mans side dish in need of salt, haha. I like the place and certainly will return. From the home made bread to the awesome desserts, really you can't go wrong!”
8. ALLYblahblah said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 05:17PM
“Had an interseting conversation with the owner. Someone outside kept making bird noises as we left, my boyfriend told me it was because the owner of the place ran over 200 seagulls! Hope the Hugs for Puppies folks don't get ahold of this. ”
9. RoxyPuff said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 04:40PM
“hmmm. hard to give this place another try when there is just so many other places out there waiting for your money and willing to do better... cheap or no cheap im not wasteing my cash on trash!”
10. Foodie215 said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 04:36PM
“I guess it's still up in the air about this place. Seems to me that they're trying to bring Django to South Philly, and I don't think that any place in Philadelphia wants another Django. You know what I like? Meatballs and gravy. The Pastabilities are endless! ”
11. Shecky Lipshitz said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 04:04PM
“Article was dead on. This place will be sitting next to Peppercorns in restaurant purgatory. Only high note was that its so far out of the way I won't have to ever go there again for any reason life or death.”
12. Jackie C. said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 11:28AM
“My boyfriend and I really like The Witch. We've been here a few times and so far so good. Two weeks ago I had the Mahi Mahi. It was a nice peice of fish, with a buttery flakey texture. It came with a garlic and pinapple fried rice and delicious fresh veggies. It was finished with a really sweet soy glaze. Terrific. The chef even talked with us to see how we enjoyed our meal, real nice guy. We're going next week because we found out they have a 4 course, $20 special on Tuesdays! ”
13. Steven LeVan said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 11:08AM
“My family and I really like this place. My experience with the hericot verts was the opposite, they were cooked nicely with a slightly crispy peice of bacon wrapped around them. The lollipop lambchops were probably the best I've eaten anywhere. I've invited a group of collegues to dinner and they each gave rave reviews. Two have since taken their wives to dinner there. I agree that the walls seem a little dated, but all in all, it's a warm atmosphere and the food is fantastic. I highly reccomend people to check it out.”
14. Alan G. said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 08:44AM
“I've had dinner quite a few times at The Witch and my friends and I have enjoyed everything we've gotten, nothing undercooked. Out of everything I've ordered, the Scallops and bread pudding were my favs! It's right here in the neighborhood and the prices are perfect. I haven't tried brunch yet, but maybe this weekend!”
15. Adam said... on Feb 5, 2009 at 08:11AM
“Keep it above the belt, Rich. I visited the Witch at dinner, but judging from the comments it seems like brunch might be a better bet. I can get down with build-your-own bloodies. My big issue was the lack of consistency; a perfectly cooked piece of protein, followed by a completely underseasoned side. So Bobby was the garde-manger at Django, Moses? Interesting... Not what he told me.”
16. Richard Geregberg said... on Feb 4, 2009 at 05:54PM
“Bobby smokes so much He can't taste anything anyway.”
17. Moses Malone said... on Feb 4, 2009 at 05:48PM
“Bobby was not the sous at Django, just a salad guy. Be honest”
18. Kiki Pecheux said... on Feb 4, 2009 at 09:17AM
“Brunch is a calm, sweet smelling, enjoyable experience. The chef makes so many delicious specials as well and I have brought my young children with me and the chef actually made pancakes small and perfectly sized for them to really enjoy! You should give it another try. When did you go?”
19. Tom said... on Feb 4, 2009 at 08:42AM
“ouch”
20. brian said... on Feb 4, 2009 at 06:52AM
“I live right down the block from witch and have been in for diner and for there brunch (check out the biuld your own bloody mary ) and enjoyed all of my meal granted I am no critic . but I know good food when I taste it . yes the staff can be alittle here and there at times but all in all . I welcome it in our hood .prices are right and a friendly staff to boot”
21. Robert said... on Feb 4, 2009 at 06:07AM
“I had brunch at the Witch recently and it was awful. Watery crab cakes , over-cooked food and really sloppy, amateurish service made it a forgettable experience. They need a new cook and some experienced wait staff. I'd never return! ”
22. Anthony & Sara said... on Feb 4, 2009 at 05:17AM
“Sunday brunch here is wonderful! They even have a make your own Bloody Mary bar! Everything we've tried so far has really been enjoyable and the best part is there is totally lots of parking. The decore isn't the best, I mean maybe some different paintings or decorations that fit the place would be better. But we give the food two thumbs up! ”
23. Angela said... on Feb 4, 2009 at 03:21AM
“I first went here on a recommendation and was pleasantly surprised. I've had the acorn squash soup and thought it tasted great, the balsamic is what brought it to life. My friend had the pork belly and said it was terrific. I've had the Salmon wrapped in a tastey delicate puffed pastry and a scrumptious melody of vegtables. My friend has had the Carmalized scallops, HUGE! the risotto came in the most awesome little pumpkin, he devoured it all. We've been back twice and are looking forward to their Sunday brunch, which we hear is a must. Oh yeah, the bread pudding was sensational, check it out! ”
24. L.B. said... on Feb 4, 2009 at 02:45AM
“My husband has worked in the restaurant industry for many years, so we both know a little something about food. We feel as though this place is quite the gem, great prices and fantastic food. We've always been delighted with the specials; delicious crab cakes, duck spring rolls and my husband favors their steaks, always cooked to perfection. (He's a hard man to please!) Perhaps the reviewer is a smoker who's taste buds are damaged, that tends to make things taste bland. : ) ”
25. David Farthington said... on Feb 4, 2009 at 12:50AM
“Interesting article, although not my experience at all. I have eaten at this new restaurant several times and found it to be completely consistant. I have a few favorites, one of which was mentioned in the article, the Duck entree. I personally found the barley to have a sweet apple cider flavor, with diced apples and sweet onions; not sure why it would be screaming for salt, haha! And I have also had the acorn squash soup, which to me seemed to be the right balance of flavors, very seasonal. The lambchops appetizer is to die for, I wish it came as an entree! This place is definately worth the visit. ”
26. Kiki Pecheux said... on Feb 3, 2009 at 06:55PM
“I recently had the filet, twice baked potato, and swiss chard and I found everything delicious! The filet was cooked perfectly at medium rare, the twice baked potato was fantastic and even the swiss chard had much flavor and it was comforting and enjoyable on a cold evening! PS Try the lollipop lamb chops...homemade sour yogurt...yum!”
27. Nobody said... on Feb 14, 2009 at 11:59PM
“Whatever! The Witch rocks! They have a good staff! Not the worker's fault here... I worked there for a minute, it's hard to open a new place, especially with a bad rep from before. I liked everyone there, and I hope they work out the kinks so they all can make some fucking money! It's tuff out there dudes! Owners aren't too bad, treated me OK. Good spot for the locals ...cheap too, not sure how that works but, I guess that's why I had my doubts n left before this shit storm. South Philly needs more places like this that aren't scared to stick their necks out, there are people here willing to try new shit goddamnit. A CLose place that's bringing a little pizazz is what the fucking doctor ordered. So what if it's not perfect yet? If they don't adjust to the customer, well then fuck them. If they try to let them suprise you.”
28. Danielle Carver said... on Feb 11, 2009 at 09:10AM
“I don't know too much about the food here but the comments alone are entertaining enough to make me want to go check it out. Great PR Adam!”
29. Silentbutdeadly said... on Feb 9, 2009 at 01:38AM
“I think this is getting personal. Let's all agree... We've given a proper beating... Put it out to pasture? P.S. Clara Bow never spoke, retard.”
30. clara bow said... on Feb 8, 2009 at 12:15PM
“OMG you are so obvious...sad and pathetic ... and if lightening strikes you'll know why...Adam you should be embarassed allowing such comments...I can see what that says about you and your followers.”
31. Fuckface said... on Feb 7, 2009 at 11:58PM
“I thought Ross was the chef of Django.”
32. Reinhardt's Revenge said... on Feb 7, 2009 at 11:50PM
“This is just one critic's opinion, who happens to write for a fee publication that is smeared all over Center City. It's not like it will affect a South Philadelphia dinning destination that serves Center City food at neighborhood prices! Besides, who wouldn't eat four shovels of shit for twenty dollars on Tuesday? Any exemplary human being would do so.”
33. Moses E Wendel said... on Feb 7, 2009 at 03:49PM
“Dude dont use my name, to talk trash. Bobby is an exemplary human being let him make his money. it doesnt matter what he says, Django has ceased to exist. Love, Moses, the former chef from Django ”
34. Me said... on Jun 15, 2009 at 04:09PM
“I've become a regular at this place, great staff, consistenly good food at decent prices and being one in the area, a great location as well. This article sounds like hey I want to slag a place, let me pick them. Go eat there again and give it an honest chance.”