By Brian Freedman
Springtime produce is finally hitting farmstand shelves, which means that, after the long, dark days of roasted root vegetables and little else, the time has come to indulge in the classic vegetables of the season: artichokes, asparagus, cardoons, fava beans and more.
Well, friends, I’ve made an important realization: My palate is actually far more cultured than my past columns would suggest. You see, even though Italian and Mexican are about as ethnic as I’ll get in my own kitchen, I have eaten fare from many corners of the globe—Indian, Ethiopian, Moroccan, Japanese, Jamaican. More surprising: I’ve liked all of them. I know, right? I’m just as shocked as you.
The food on South Street shares the same DNA as the NoLibs original, the same menu of comforting, fairly priced classics and riffs. The potato latkes remain addictive. Eggs, as always, are done impeccably, from the simple to the baroque.
While my aversion to vegetables isn’t nearly as strong as it was six months ago, developing more than just a mild appreciation for them remains an uphill battle.
The pale little pilsner is the most consumed beer style in the world, and among beer snobs the most scorned. They tend to be light, yellow, fizzy and not much else. When done right, though, pilsner is a style proving that less can be more.
Attention to the minute differences in flavor and texture are what lift many of the dishes here above the fray. Samantha Marsh, who owned two Thai restaurants before Baan Thai (one in Bangkok and another in California), takes the food she serves personally
Smart move, because Will, the much-anticipated East Passyunk BYOB by the extraordinarily talented Chef Christopher Kearse, is as deserving of thoughtful drinking as any restaurant in town. To quote a restaurant-business friend of mine, “That Chris can cook!”
As a first-time customer, I was naturally a teeny bit skeptical whether their treats could stack up to the traditional dairy-based desserts I love so dearly. This worry was squelched the second I got a whiff of the bakery’s heavenly cake-in-the-oven aroma.