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A deep rusty brown with a firm white head, The Hairy Eyeball looks like a fairly robust beer, but even that imposing appearance doesn’t quite measure up to what’s in the glass. This is an “American strong ale,” a catchall description used for any potent beer that doesn’t quite fit into a standard category. The reason is obvious: The aroma is a big smack of malty sweetness, with dried fruits, caramel and dark nuts all in the mix. From the very first sip you’re hit with a wallop of warming alcohol, followed by toasted malts, toffee and burnt sugar. What hops are present are strictly there to hold back the sweet malts; it finishes dry, making it a good match for a meal (preferably something fatty and rich). Give The Hairy Eyeball a try at Doobies Bar, Khyber Pass Pub, Lucky’s Last Chance and others.