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Goose Island’s Matilda is a dry, spicy Belgian style ale that offers up a blend of earthy yeast, pears, prickly hops and a slight touch of funk, so the idea of the Lambicus variation—Matilda fermented with brettanomyces, a strain of yeast that imparts heavy “barnyard” aromas and flavors—is an inspired choice. The original Matilda is still hiding somewhere in this brew, but now you have to find it beneath soft layers of musty hay, tart apple and the smell of a barn loft. If Matilda has a bit of prickliness, it’s all smoothed to subtle softness in this variation. Improvement over the original? Find out at Cook and Shaker.