In the 1980s, a large import brewery used to run commercials touting themselves as the beer to drink if you didn’t want bitter beer. If Maryland’s Flying Dog ever ran a commercial like that, it would clearly be with tongue planted firmly in cheek, given the bracing bitterness of their IPA. Snake Dog doesn’t much play the “approachable” game: While the first quick sip reveals some cracker-like sweetness, it’s quickly overwhelmed by a resinous, pine-inflected bitterness that scrubs your mouth clean of all else. The remarkably dry finish allows this to pair well with spicy dishes and fatty meats and cheeses, just don’t expect restraint: This beer has none. Test your bitterness threshold at Institute.
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