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When the sky is gray and the air is cold, the last thing you expect to find in your glass is a saison, hence 21st Amendment’s name for this winter seasonal. Sometimes it’s nice to buck expectations, though, and this saison has a huge, frothy white head and potent aromas of thick, musky yeast. Touches of grain, grass and spice shoot through the taste, along with a hint of lemon zest, but what dominates is rich, sourdough-like breadiness. Though its alcohol content is a fairly modest 6.2 percent, it nonetheless has the kind of slightly warming character you associate with high alcohol beers. Try it at Alla Spina, Kraftwork, Side Bar and Khyber Pass Pub.