French Grub in Philly

by Tim McGinnis

Philly has a long liaison fraternel with all things French. Napoleon Bonaparte’s brother Joseph fled to the safety of Ninth Street shortly after a coup d’etat deposed him from the Spanish throne. Georges Perrier brought Philadelphia’s restaurant bourgeoisie out of an ennui-induced coma. And Ben Franklin is widely known to have had un penchant pour le ménage à trois. So it should be considered au naturel that avant-garde, savant Philly chefs have been exploring the French art of charcuterie à gogo. (That’s sausages and confit to you, bub.) It is then à propos that Field Guide brings you this pièce d’occasion of spiced, seasoned and sometimes smoked meat mixtures. Sacre bleu s’arreter. It’s our raison d’être.

If You’re Ragin’ and Cajun

The postage-stamp-sized kitchen at the Sidecar Bar and Grille (2201 Christian St. 215.732.3429) somehow manages to produce tons of charcuterie. Among their best is the bold and spicy boucherie-style house-made Cajun sausages and tasso ham that are so authentically delicious we were inspired to start our own zydeco band. Fais do do. G P L O A

If You’re More of le Traditionalist

Auguste Escoffier, the man who quite literally wrote the book on modern French cuisine, would feel right at home at Caribou Café (1126 Walnut St. 215.625.9535). The pork, pheasant and armagnac soaked prune pate served with cornichons and mixed field greens deserves la Légion d’Honneur medal. G F P A

If You’re a True Meat Eater

Okay, so the food at Fiorella’s (817 Christian St. 215.922. 0506) is more Sicilian than Corsican, but the ground pork sausages stuffed with fennel or provolone cheese are a carnivore’s dream. The sausage­—paired with the neon pig in this pure pork Italian sausage maker’s window—is sure to keep the vegans at bay. L O

If You’re Into Home Remedies

The White Dog Cafe (3420 Sansom st. 215.386.9224) is named for a woman who resided in the building during the late 1800s. She suffered from a bum leg, and credited her eventual recovery to her cream-colored canine’s habit of lying on her manky limb. Those who rely on more conventional medicine will enjoy the restaurant’s maple and sage breakfast sausage. G L A

If You Think Victory Pours Proudly

Ben Franklin believed beer was proof of divinity, and the French consider cooking a sacred ritual. The blessedly rich artisanal chicken and duck liver mousse accompanied by cornichons, red onion and whole grain mustard at Standard Tap (901 N. Second St. 215.238.0630), washed down with a few pints from their selection of regional beers, is a true religious experience. F P L A

If You’re Straight out da Coal Mines

Our country cousin came a-callin’, and we gave him a taste of our metropolitan lifestyle. We went to Vintage Wine Bar and Bistro (129 S. 13th St. 215.922.3095), ordered the rustically refined pâté de campagne made of ground pork, pork liver and fennel seeds accompanied by cornichons, shoved a fork in his hand and told him it was meatloaf and pickles. “Damn good loaf!” he said. G F L A