Gunn lobby: Tommy's baby-backs are the best in the city. (photo by: jeff fusco)

Ribbed for Your Pleasure

A saucy search for the best barbecue.

by Leah Blewett

If you don’t think of ribs as destination food, here’s your crash course, and it’s based on the simple premise that good barbecue is hard to find—and worth the hike. Sure, nowhere in Philly is going to top Wanda’s Rib Shack out in Kansas, where you and Grandma can stuff yourselves silly for about five bucks each with the smokiest, tastiest ribs around. But we’ve got some sleeper hits in our midst, and we’ll happily car-share a ride to the ’burbs for the next best thing. After all, spending an hour or two tooling around with friends in search of rocking ribs and satisfying sides isn’t too shabby a way to pass an afternoon.

If More Is More

You can’t argue with the value of Sweet Lucy’s Smokehouse’s (7500 State Rd. 215.331.3112) barbecue buffet. Every Monday from 5 p.m. till 8:30 p.m. they put out a continuously refilled all-you-can-eat spread of ’cue and sides. It’s a shame their ribs aren’t more outstanding. “Good not great” doesn’t merit the hike to the Northeast when the only side to write home about is their sweet, buttery mashed yams. S O M A

If Fame Is Your Middle Name

Rumors of servers who introduce their spiel with “Hi! I’m Famous , and welcome to Famous Dave’s!” (1936 Columbus Blvd. 215.339.0339) turn out to be disappointingly false, but the ribs are exactly what you’d expect from this chain: passable, inoffensive and served with enough varieties of sauces that guests who aren’t true barbecue aficionados will remember the variety and value more than the meat. For the pig lovers among us, this one isn’t worth the trip: Bland ribs and sides that are, naturally, mostly fried. L M

If You’ve Got a Sweet Tooth

Skip the meats at Phoebe’s (2214 South St. 215.546.4811) and head straight for the apple-cider-y chunks of yam, which are sweet, tart and compulsively crave-able. Their creamy mac ’n’ cheese also stands up as a real knockout. Just please, for your own sake, don’t mitigate these delightful sides with Phoebe’s oily, gamey pork ribs. You’re better off picking up the accoutrements here and buying your ribs elsewhere for a hodge-podge meal. S A

If You’re a Serious Carnivore

The best ribs to be had are the Memphis-style baby-backs at Tommy Gunn’s (4901 Ridge Ave. 215.508.1030). These babies are smoked tender and served sauceless—the hallmark of a rib that can stand on its own. The sauce options are tasty as well, and don’t overwhelm the meaty, hickory-infused goodness of the pork. Sides are just okay, with the exception of hockey-puck-shaped discs of fried mac ’n’ cheese, which might stop your heart (literally). Still, fried mac and great ribs make for a pretty perfect last meal. L S D

If Home-Style Gets You All Warm and Fuzzy

You’d do yourself a disservice to let the less-than-affluent neighborhood put you off Dwight’s Southern Bar-b-que I (4345 Lancaster Ave. 215.879.2497). Past the metal-grated windows is a rib joint whose real old-fashioned Southern hospitality could literally take the chill out of a winter’s day. Combine courteous service with the tastiest hot sauce we found and you’ve got yourself a rib-lickin’ treat worth the trip. And with Dwight’s modest prices, it’s the city’s best ’cue value. L O D !

If You Can Stand the Heat

The hot rib sauce at Ron’s Ribs (1627 South St. 215.732.3561) may ignite a slow burn in your tummy, so have them mix it with the mild. Then roll up your sleeves for some of the meatiest, smokiest ribs around. And don’t forget a generous hunk of cornbread: Theirs is the closest thing to homemade we encountered, and a perfect, lightly sweet counterpoint to all that spicy, savory meat. L O D !

L: Long, skinny ribs.

S: Short, stubby ribs.

O: Oozing with sauce.

M: Many sauce options; apply your own.

D: A real rib destination.

!: Super spicy.

A: The accompaniments are the real draw.