Eat Beat

by Kirsten Henri

Hot intelligence from South Philly: Starting Wed., Sept. 5, beloved 45-year-old luncheonette Shank’s & Evelyn’s will open for dinner with chef Frank Perri (son of owner Evelyn Perri and the late Shank) at the helm. The restaurant was open for dinner several years ago, but returned to strictly lunch service. But now Perri (also known as chef Frankie Shank) has returned (from Florida) and so has dinner. Expect to see a full menu of traditional Italian fare, from veal marsala to fettucine alfredo, with a hefty selection of chef’s specialties thrown in (we’re especially looking forward to trying steak “Frankie’s way,” which involves filet mignon, roasted peppers and mushrooms). Prices top out at $23.95. The effusive Perri tells us to expect a relaxed ambience in the evening, with linens covering the tables and counter, and “big Sinatra” on the stereo. Feel free to BYOB. Call for reservations. >> Dinner service Tues.-Thurs., 5-10:30pm; Fri.-Sat., 5-11pm. Shank’s & Evelyn’s, 932 S. 10th St. 215.629.1093

Drink It!

There’s not much going on in the food world the last week of August, so this time of year Eat Beat likes to retire to a cozy corner bar with a decent cocktail. We recently found a very decent drink at Chick’s: the salty pomeranian. As a rule, we don’t care much for pomeranians, having been attacked by a particularly nasty one on Christmas Eve (true story), but we’ll make an exception for Chick’s version because its bite is strictly alcoholic. Bartendrix Katie Loeb whipped up this pomegranate-licked riff on the classic salty dog, and it brings all the elements of sweet/salty/strong together in concert. What’s not to love about pomegranate vodka, fresh and Rose’s lime juices, plus ruby red grapefruit juice graced with a salted rim? In fact, it’s so delicious, it’s the perfect cocktail for the dog days of August. Badum-tish. >> Chick’s Café & Wine Bar, 614 S. Seventh St. 215.625.3700. www.myspace.com/chickscafe

Eat It!

Diner pastries tend to extremes—they’re either stale and dry or surprisingly delicious. It’s no great secret that the Melrose Diner is known for its absolutely delicious pastries­—witness the multiple “Best of” awards it’s accrued for them over its 72-year history. Now this storied diner may be under new ownership, but I’m happy to report their buttercream cake has not been affected by the change. Fluffy golden yellow cake neatly separated by layers of just-sweet-enough buttercream frosting looks exactly how it tastes: like butter. Or if you prefer, buttah. >> Melrose Diner, 1501 Snyder Ave., 215.467.6644. www.melrose-diner.com